Reloading "tricks" of the trade

I've been spending a lot of time in the reloading room lately. I have also noticed that on the board we have some folks getting into the "art" of reloading for the first time so I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread containing tips that others have learned over the years or ideas on tools or methods that you use in reloading that may be outside to norm.

For example........

When dumping powder from a container into the measurer, or vice versa, do you ever notice that the kernels will "jump" and stick on the walls of the containers. This is caused by static. Use a drier sheet (fabric softner sheet) and wipe down the mouth of the powder jug, your funnels, the powder measurer, etc. This will eliminate the static and keep your powder flowing better.

Another one........

I keep a towel on my reloading bench for sorting, prepping, or just about anytime I'm handling brass. This keep them from rolling around and getting away from you.

And another.......

You are always needing "containers" for sorting brass....ones for loaded ammo, fired ammo, sized, primed, ready to load, etc. I like the plastic coffee cans. I don't drink the stuff but plenty of family members do so getting them is rather easy.

If the thread looks very promising I'll add it as a sticky on the board to keep it on top.

Who's next........

go to your local outlet and buy a 120 volt timer. use it for your brass tumbler and set it for the time you want/need to clean your brass to your specs. your tumbler will shut off after the time set and be worry free out in your garage etc if your loading area is away from your living space. no need to keep checkin to make sure you did not forget it!

....and to add to the tumbler tip.....you can get polishing media at Harbor Freight stores. It's a 25# box of crushed walnut. Works very well. Be sure to get a 20% off coupon that is in about all their ads and there is usually a coupon for something free...flashlight, screwdriver set, multimeter, etc...with any purchase or sometimes a purchase of over $9.99.

I love this. Great idea!!!

I have a journeyman electrician license, so I'm anal about static electricity. I grounded my press so I don't have that issue "blowing up in my face".

Unless you are working with black powder you don't need to worry about static. It won't hurt anything but its not necessary.

Pretty good idea for a thread. I can think of a few, if it's ok to note things that are not actual reloading.

I like to have a power strip at the back of my bench. If your like me, you bench might also be used for other gun related chores, and having an easy power connection with cords to the back is handy.

Lots of light. I really like the office swingarm style that can be moved to different locations/heights. I would avoid the 9.99 model, but pick one with a clamp syle base that can be located around the bench. Handy for getting good light into specific places, especially for times when you might be leaning over and casting shadows on a main overhead.

If you reload while sitting down, a chair or stool that is adjustable for height is great. If your going to be cranking on that press arm for any length of time, getting a comfortable height can really save the arm wear and tear. And then when doing other batch operations, you can adjust for different locations at the bench.

Those woodworking clamps that are adjustable for a wide opening can be handy for clamping certain things down on the bench like your case trimmer. It's not necessary to drill holes in your bench for every accessory with use of clamps.

I really like having a small metal vice on the end of my bench. I use it a lot for gunsmithing stuff, but having something that will clamp things can be handy, for reloading. I like the ones with the flat anvil on the end. Handy for pulling bullets with a kinetic puller ro other times when you need light hammering, can use the jaws to hold the light noted above, or sometimes just a third hand for chores.

I also like having a small collection of tools that stay at my bench. Especially allen head sets, small screw drivers, etc. Its a drag to have to head for the garage or vehicle looking for that "right" wrench. If your running a turret or progressive, I consider this a must, as well as periodic checking of adjustments of these presses. basically, when I sit down to reload, I want everything I need there, to minimize wandering around for possibles (and distractions).

Craig

Make your Dentist your friend. At the next visit ask him for any old or broken instruments

Great idea posting this. I am new to reloading this year. I had static issues when I started loading 44 mag with H110 and this stuff was sticking to everything. Thanks for idea about dryer sheet.

The dryer sheets work great for the dispenser pan too. The most important thing is keep your room and bench clean and organized, some advice I need to follow more. for containers I went and bought the cheapo metal racks with the long yellow plastic bins from Harbor freight and the work great for seperating brass.

Make your presses mobile. I made this dovetail system to keep from bolting my presses to the bench. All of my presses have a dovetail block bolted to them. Then I made a shelf high on the wall to mount them all and keep them out of the way...you can see them mounted in the last pic above my ammo locker.

BTW....the cluttered up bench is my old set up.

Reloading bench pics

Thats slick Dan, I've got a portable press system I believe is make by Frankford Arsenal and I have a couple of tops to it. I did have my Lee progressive on one and an old Rockchucker on the other. I originally bought it when I didn't have room for a full bench but now I let my kids use it to resize brass for me and to teach them reloading basics. I have my Rockchucker Supreme mounted on a converted desk. This little portable deal is perfect for someone that lives in a small home or apartment. It has 4 bins, two hang on each side so you can put your brass and bullets there while you load.

Dan,
That is really cool. I'm gonna have to borrow that idea forsure.

When I first stared reloading for my 300 Ultra Mag, there was no tool for OAL gauging the gun. So I had to use an old case, and gently hand squeeze the case around the bullet. It works fine as long as the bullet isn't too tight in the case causing the rifling to bite into the bullet.

I had the same situation with my RUM when I bought it and the guys at Nosler told me to do the same thing but take a sharpie and color the bullet so it leaves a clear mark when you remove it from the case giving you the ability to check seating depth as well as OAL

My OAL gauges consist of a relieved case and a bullet. I just did this one today for my SIL's Savage 22-250 bolt. Just cut a slit with a hack saw or band saw and deburr it. Then size as normal and just barely start a bullet in the split mouth. Insert in and close the breech, then open breech and gently tap out from the muzzle end with a rod. The bullet will slide into the case as it engages the rifling. You can see on the left how much room there is over the one the right that was seated to the cannelure.

If doing a bolt gun don't try to remove by pulling back on the bolt as you may leave the bullet behind. Lift the bolt handle, point the muzzle upward with the butt on the floor, and tap out with a rod.

I have my scale mounted at eye level under the shelf above my bench,no bending down as I check weights. Under the shelf protects it and doesn't take up space.Cigar boxes or plastic coffee cans work well for brass.I keep a reloading diary on the shelf and write down every load with all components ,date loaded, and number of shells loaded.also add group size later. NEVER trust anything to memory.

I've added a magnifier and light combo to my bench, my old eyes sure like the added light and the magnifying glass helps with checking a case for possible problems. You can find these at most hobby stores.

Joe

Joe, I've got the same thing in my shop but the ones I was finding were very expensive so I was in Harbor Freight one day and noticed they had them for 50.00 or so. I picked one up and it seems to work just fine and I saved 100.00-250.00 over the other ones I had looked at. I also use a visor with multiple lenses with various magnifications. I you go that way the ones with the lights on each side are nice. I use them alot for reading stuff on old firearms where pitting and such have destroyed the print.

Here is another one to add,

For storing brass or ammo, head down the the local Shop & Rob store that sells the Jerky strips, Beef Links from the clear tubes etc.

Have them save you all the extra CLEAR jerky tubes,around here they were discarded,(I now offer them 10 cents per/tube, and they gladly saves them for me).

When you get them home, VERY lightly heat the labels with the better half's hair dryer, or set the tubes in a window when the sun is shining thru it, to help soften and remove the label, remove with a slow steady pull and over 95% of the glue will stick to the label, if you do it right.

Use a piece of Duct tape to remove any remaining residue from the sticky label, push the Duct tape on the remaining glue and pull away quickly and the remaining glue will stick to the Duct tape, faster the better.

Clean the inside and lid with hot soapy water to remove any remaining salt etc from the inside.

I have several dozen of these tubes, they come in all sizes and the lids are color coded to the caliber of the brass being stored inside, plus you can place any labels you want on the outside for information etc.

YMMV
Tia,
Don

I use the empty lyman media jugs for the same purpose

I make dummy round, for seating depth, for each gun. I use the small fishing lure boxes to keep my dummy rounds and dies for each cal. They work great for keeping everything together, when work up loads at the range.

Mark

I use gallon plastic milk jugs for storing brass. Cut a hole in the top removing the spout but leaving the handle makes convenient containers.

Pulled bullets that may be marked and scarred up or the tips all mashed over........DO NOT throw them away. I toss them all in a jar. Just this weekend I wanted to form up some additional 7TCU so I loaded them with 10gr of Unique and dumped out my pulled bullet jar....ended up finding enough pulled bullets to use for fireforming w/o using up my good bullets.

The forming load with Unique allows for enough pressure to form the case and use any bullets from 120 to 160gr w/o excess pressure. Also saves a BUNCH of powder per round by using it versus the standard powders that use 25-30 grains per shot.

Hey Wapiti I have a t-7 turret on one of the portable benches by Frankford. I can move it around the house or take to the range. If I want to make it a little more steady I slide a 20 pound plate onto the top of the base from my weider weightlifting set.

I like the 5 pound plastic Adams peanut butter jars from costco to keep my batches of brass I usually throw a note in each to tell me how far they have been processed, primer type, number times reloaded etc.

When I lube my brass for resizing and depriming I put a drop or two of lube on the palm of my hand between my little finger and wrist and rub both hands together getting it on both hands. I then take usually 5 pieces of brass and roll them between my hands around the shoulders. I also take a cotton swab, the ones that fit on a cleaning rod, and put a small amount of lube on it and swab the inside of the mouth of the brass. This has worked, for me, better than anything I've tried.