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Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W #45676 01/25/2009 2:09 AM
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mike1227 Offline OP
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I just bought a BFR 500 SW. I have over 1000 uncannelured 300 gr. IMI bullets that I shoot out of my Desert Eagle. I will get other bullets with cannelures as time goes on, but I would like to use the 300 IMI bullets since I have so many to use up. Will I have crimp jumping issues with the IMI's w/o the cannelure in hot loads for the BFR?

Any other info about loading this toy would be welcomed. I have loaded many big bores including the FA .454. This will be the most powerful revolver to date for me so loading tips will help by all 500 SW owners.

Thanx,

Mike

Last edited by mike1227; 01/25/2009 2:11 AM.
Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45678 01/25/2009 2:32 AM
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KRal Offline
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I do not own a 500 SW but, if I had to guess, I would say "yes" you will probably need a cannelure.


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: KRal] #45680 01/25/2009 4:07 AM
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The bullets I used had a crimping grove (hornday 350 grain xtp-mag)also depending on the brass, most have an R on the back of the case in which you have to use a large rifle primer if it doesn't you use a large pistol primer.


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: BIGSTEVE83] #45681 01/25/2009 4:10 AM
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Your going to want a cannelure or crimp groove or they will jump the crimp. I did alot of playing with the 500 and like most big bores mine didn't like light for caliber bullets, it seemed to like 400gr sierras over a max charge of H110

Last edited by wapitirod; 01/25/2009 4:12 AM.

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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: wapitirod] #45689 01/25/2009 1:13 PM
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doc with a glock Offline
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Mike,

I have used TCJ (total copper jacketed bullets ) from Rainier in my BFR500, without problems. You can get away without the cannelure if you "taper" crimp the bullets. Redding makes a taper crimp die for 50 cal. Another option is to ensure that the expander plug is several thousandths more narrow than the bullet you intend to use, gently flare the case mouth allowing you to seat the bullet, while allowing a firm grip on the bullet by the case mouth. I assume these IMI bullets for the 50 AE are 300 grains?

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45692 01/25/2009 4:32 PM
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Thanks so far guys.

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: doc with a glock] #45693 01/25/2009 4:38 PM
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 Originally Posted By: doc with a glock
Mike,

I have used TCJ (total copper jacketed bullets ) from Rainier in my BFR500, without problems. You can get away without the cannelure if you "taper" crimp the bullets. Redding makes a taper crimp die for 50 cal. Another option is to ensure that the expander plug is several thousandths more narrow than the bullet you intend to use, gently flare the case mouth allowing you to seat the bullet, while allowing a firm grip on the bullet by the case mouth. I assume these IMI bullets for the 50 AE are 300 grains?


Hey doc:
Thanks for the info. Yes it a 300 Gr. Bullet. Now I'm wondering if I could use my taper die from my 50 AE kit since it does not have a seater plug in it. I mean it is the same diameter, all I would really have to do is raise it up for the height of the 500 bullet right?

Mike

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45695 01/25/2009 6:17 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Mike
Hey doc:
Thanks for the info. Yes it a 300 Gr. Bullet. Now I'm wondering if I could use my taper die from my 50 AE kit since it does not have a seater plug in it. I mean it is the same diameter, all I would really have to do is raise it up for the height of the 500 bullet right?

Mike


The 50 AE die should work, like you say just back it out then adjust for the 500 Smith case lenght.

If bullet pull from recoil becomes an issue, which you might see at the 4th or 5th round just load a couple at a time. Kind of a drag with a single action, but it would get you shooting and using the bullets you have.

If you do end up using one or two rounds it would be a good opertunity to test the individual chambers for accuracy. Every now and then a resolver will have a chamber that does not want to shoot with the rest. Mark it and have that one last to fire when hunting.


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: Tigger] #45702 01/25/2009 8:56 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Tigger
 Originally Posted By: Mike
Hey doc:
Thanks for the info. Yes it a 300 Gr. Bullet. Now I'm wondering if I could use my taper die from my 50 AE kit since it does not have a seater plug in it. I mean it is the same diameter, all I would really have to do is raise it up for the height of the 500 bullet right?

Mike


The 50 AE die should work, like you say just back it out then adjust for the 500 Smith case lenght.

If bullet pull from recoil becomes an issue, which you might see at the 4th or 5th round just load a couple at a time. Kind of a drag with a single action, but it would get you shooting and using the bullets you have.

If you do end up using one or two rounds it would be a good opertunity to test the individual chambers for accuracy. Every now and then a resolver will have a chamber that does not want to shoot with the rest. Mark it and have that one last to fire when hunting.



Tigger:
You are the man. Thanks for the info. I guess I have to load this thing with large rifle primers. I'm guessing CCI 200's may be a good choice? What other rifle primers do you like?

Mike

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45708 01/25/2009 9:42 PM
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I have a 500 but not alot of experience loading for it yet.

The rifle primers should be strong enough to light off any powder you are going to use. BigSteve is right on the "R" in the headstamp. Some of the early Hornady and Starline brass used pistol primers. They can be reamed to the rifle lenght if you have a carbide primer pocket tool. In the 2007 Hodgdon annual manual there is a good article on loading the 460 and 500. It cover the primer topic well.

In the picture below you can see the Corbon has an "R" the Starline is pictured both ways and the Hornady does not have the "R".



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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: Tigger] #45710 01/25/2009 11:56 PM
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I saw the "R" on my starline brass so I know it's large rifle primers. I don't know much about rifle primers, so I am trying to find out which one guys prefer over the others. I went to the gun show today in Albany and that sucked. No one even sells primers or powders. Things have really changed over the last fifteen years...

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45822 01/27/2009 2:57 AM
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I use Winchester Large Rifle and have not had a problem I have also used the CCI primers again no problems. As far as a preference I do not have one yet I am still just a puppy.


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: BIGSTEVE83] #45846 01/27/2009 3:06 PM
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Thanks Guys:
I will taper crimp the 300 IMI's and shoot them one at a time. I will go purchase some cannelured bullets like Sierra's 350's. I just hope the factory sights work well for me, b/c I do not have any intention of putting a scope on this gun.

Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45863 01/27/2009 7:46 PM
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Mike, How do you like your 50AE Desert Eagle. My son-in-law is chomping at the bit for one of those. I have tried to redirect him to the revolver route, but no success. Thanks


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: Sawfish] #45866 01/27/2009 8:18 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Sawfish
Mike, How do you like your 50AE Desert Eagle. My son-in-law is chomping at the bit for one of those. I have tried to redirect him to the revolver route, but no success. Thanks


Hi Sawfish:
I can't say anything bad about the DE50 except for being heavy. I have mine polished hard chromed, so it really is a beautiful looking pistol. I guess beauty is always in the beholders eyes though. Accuracy is really amazing out of the pistol. Last month I shot a 3" black dot right in the middle at 100 yards with an Ultra dot scope offhand.

I have had about six Desert Eagles from 44's -50's. Shooting them with open sights, even with millets, is useless in my 18 years of use with them. I can't belive Magnum Research never dealt with this issue. With any scope on however, it is a fine deadly accurate weapon. I like red dots on mine, because they are light and don't add to the weight issue.

Reloading is pretty straight forward just so you make sure you have a good TAPER crimp on the case. I am putting a 300 IMI JSP with 34.5 grs of H110 out at about 1520 FPS.

I have never had any jams with my Desert Eagles, except when I didn't do my job with taper crimping well enough. It is easy to get this bullet shooting well though.

All in all it is a great target and hunting pistol. It is extremely load and gets the attention where ever you squeeze that trigger. range masters have come over to the pistol range many times thnking someone was shooting a high powered rifle.

Recoil to me is mild with a 300 grain bullet. You can tell the differance as you shoot 325-350 gr. bullets. Recoil will pick up quite a bit with those weights.

I love my revolvers too, so I see your point. It's a nice transition to go from one to the other depending on what you feel like taing to the range.

A revolver would surely be the lighter choice in the woods, but truthfully, I really never feel the weight of the Desert Eagle when I am carrying in the woods.

I hope this helps. If he wants more info he can look up the Desert Eagle forum on Yahoo search. This site has a lot of good info for the new or advanced DE50 owner.

Mike


Last edited by mike1227; 01/27/2009 8:25 PM.
Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: mike1227] #45957 01/28/2009 7:11 PM
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Mike, Thanks for your input.


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Re: Do you need a cannelure when shooting 500 S&W [Re: Sawfish] #46066 01/30/2009 5:25 AM
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Sawfish,

Don't forget the Freedom Arms 83s were made in 50 AE, and a person can order a BFR (std length cylinder like the 454 C) also. I have the FA 83s in 4" and 7.5" and love 'em. Also have the DE and agree with Mike


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