I have been reloading for 30+ years now but have never loaded for an Encore. When I load for one of my rifles I full length size the brass. I heard you don't want to do that for the Encore. I will be loading for the .30/06 pistol. Is there any special techniques I need to know?

I just neck size and dont push them as hard as I do in a bolt gun. have not had a problem in either the .243 or 7mm-08. chambers seem to be on the max end of the spectrum so neck sizing seems to work well. Im using full length dies backed out to size neck only. good luck

I have some leftover reloads for a .30-06. So I think I am going to try them tomorrow just to get a basic sight in on the scope.

I don't know about the Encore,but when I first bought my 7MM T.C.U. that was the consensus also-neck sizing.I did this for awhile but had aggravation when groundhog hunting trying to reload quickly and so forth when I would miss and it just seemed to be too much trouble for me(trying to get the empty case out and then trying to get another in) so I went back to full length sizing and don't have any issues.I've read the pros and cons of neck sizing for the Contender and it just seems to be too much aggravation for me .I had read an article where a rifle hunter would only neck size,I think this hunter was hunting with Bob Milek-if I remember correctly,anyway the hunter got a shot at his game and missed and kept trying to chamber a round and couldn't do it so that bit of info kinda stuck in my mind against neck sizing too.

you want to adjust the dies to account for headspace. headspace is the distance from the breechface of the action to the shoulder inside the chamber, or i guess a better description might be the part of the chamber the shoulder of the case will rest against.
you have to take into account, the barrel/frame gap. this is important on a break action for best accuracy and case life. a few thousandths one way or another up or down with the size die can make a big difference at times.

remove the barrel and use it as your gauge. the case needs to stick out of the chamber a couple thousanths less than the barrel/frame gap. you can use automotive feeler gauges to get rough measurements. i also use them to set my size die off the shellholder, once i know how much it takes. you may not have to be perfect, but close counts.

I FL size everything!

When I bought my 7mm TCU from Bullberry Troy told me that if I didn’t FL size I was going to have problems. I don’t “bump the shoulder” on any of my rounds, but I do FL size.



Reeder had the same problem when he was in Africa on one of his trips. He said that he never use to use anything but a neck sizer, but when he started trying to load his ammo and half of it was literally not any good. His commented that when he got back to the states that he ended up throwing a lot of brass away. He even tried to pull ammo and resize the brass but the brass was ruined. FWIW...

I FL resize everything

I have done some reloading for various break action single shot rifles. This has worked for me. So I am thinking it will work for the Encore. I usually Full Length resize a case then load the most accurate mid velocity load I can for the caliber. If it's the 30-06 I greatly prefer IMR4064 or IMR4895. Once loaded I fire the case (fired form.) Then for the reload I back my dies out to only size the neck/shoulder. I can usually get away with 5-6 reloads before having to full Length size again. It has worked in New England Handi rifles quite well. It you get a tight chamber I suggest going to a small base die set. I use one for my semi-auto 30-06's and never have issues. The brass wont last as long always full length sizing, but its better than having a stuck case. I all most always Fire Form and Neck Size for Bolts. I use a lot a lake city brass and hand work them. I get 10+ firing out of my brass.

Hope this helps
Bob

I full length size everything except my 7 mm tcu.

F L size to the point the brass is about .002 shorter that touching the frame when loaded and closed. Get a set of feeler guages like you use to set points on an old car. Check the gap between the base of the brass of a reloaded round and the little circle piece on the frame where the firing pin comes through. Make your reloaded rounds about long enough to where you can only get one in there when the gun is closed and loaded about .002 or .003. You can take that plug out with one screw and put shims behind it if needed. Some frame need them some don't....Jim

I believe in FL sizing everything. You're asking for trouble in the hunting fields otherwise.

X's 2.

i guess we'll call it "full length sizing"....but if you just adjust the size die tight to the shellholder, you can have a few problems in the break action, and will not get the best from it.

i load for 10-12 barrels, on several different frames(contender and encore). the size die adjustments range from tight against the shellholder to maybe .010" off(from memory). .010" difference can be huge. it can mean the difference in a misfire, failure to close on a round, or total success with best accuracy possible.

I agree with 500WE and Kral. And I go further:

When resizing for a Contender or Encore I set up the die, then after sizing I put a sized case in the chamber, cock the trigger and make sure that when the trigger is pulled the hammer falls and the firing pin completely moves all the way forward to detonate the primer. Then I screw the die in another half to full turn and resize all the cases. Then after fully reloaded, I check all of the loaded rounds that I intend to use FOR THE HUNT by checking breech lock-up and hammer fall using a safe technique, re: the thumb under the hammer; barrel pointed in a safe direction etc. etc.

Failing to do this, I have had lots of "hunting loads" fail to chamber and fire properly; sometimes at very embarassing moments.

Well I loaded a few rounds (full length resized) using Sierra 150's in the .30-06. Tomorrow I will see what they do.

is there some reason you don't agree with me?

Too windy to get a group. Guess I am going to have to try later.