SRH trigger work???

"Ah yes, dry firing ... another one of my favorite subjects. Let's start with the mechanics of the gun. With exception of the bore and the chambers in the cylinder, your revolver doesn't know the difference between dry fire and live fire. The internal parts all get exercised the same except you are much more likely to damage a gun from dry firing.

Dry firing to break a gun in is not wise. Yes, a few parts will smooth up but mostly what you are doing is wearing all the parts prematurely. Here's an analogy that is a bit over dramatic using 60 grit sand paper and assuming the surfaces of the sandpaper represent the mating surfaces of internal parts. Start by placing the sandpaper with the rough sides facing each other. This would represent a mating surface in your gun where both parts are rough. Rub the two pieces of sandpaper together and soon you will see both pieces have worn the roughness off each other. Both pieces will be notably smoother but way thinner, indicating considerable wear. Now place the rough surface of one sheet of sandpaper against the smooth back on another sheet and rub them together. This would simulate a rough part rubbing on a smooth part inside your gun. As you continue to rub them together, the smooth surface now becomes rough and the rough surface stays about the same. For internal parts, that means the smoother mating surface becomes rougher and wears, but not as fast as if both surfaces were rough. Last, place the sheets of sandpaper back-to-back with the smooth surfaces facing each other. You can rub a long time with minimal wear and in fact you will polish the surfaces. This simulates two smooth parts rubbing together. When you dry fire or live fire, the parts behave much the same as the sandpaper. If you start off by smoothing the parts mating surfaces, wear is minimized and the gun will last much longer. If you dry fire to break a gun in, don't expect it to last near as long."