Cutting Brass For 500 JRH

Hey guys. I?m getting started reloading. The guy I got my JRH from gave me about 60 pieces of 500 s&w brass he had cut down for the JRH.

What would be the best way to trim up this brass?

Also, how can I make some more from new 500 s&w brass. The cost of JRH brass is $130 plus shipping per 100. I can get starline s&w brass for $60 per 100 so I would rather cut it down.

Thanks for the help!!!
Noobie... Mitch

Mitch
I use my Apple high speed arrow cut off saw with a simple DIY aluminum jig to hold the brass at the right length. I follow the brass up on a standard case trimmer to finish to length. I can buzz through a box of Starline 500 S&W cases in no time. After trimmed run through the FL sizer and off you go.
Damon

HF mini chopsaw and a jig.

I got a cheap 2 inch chop saw from Harbor Freight. It works great. Cut the brass down to within a couple of hundredths then took the rest off with my Lyman trimmer. Good luck and good shooting

An advantage to making your 500 JRH brass by cutting down 500 S&W brass is the size of the rim at the base. A 500 JRH has a turned down rim compared to the rim of a 500 S&W case. By using the 500 S&W cut down to 500 JRH you get a robust rim that will eject more reliably from a double-action cylinder. A double-action ejector can miss the rim of the factory 500 JRH and leave the empty casing resting in the cylinder. Not a good situation if needing to reload in a hurry...

He has a BFR in .500 JRH. Not an issue. I can say this with certainty, my .500 Linebaugh BFR is much harder to unload and load in a hurry than my .500 JRH BFRs because of the increase in rim size. It hangs up much more easily. I kinda like the smaller rim. Plus, only .005 separates the JRH from the S&W rim.

Mr. Prasac,
I am fully aware of all you stated. I have an X-frame 500 Smith and Wesson and do not hand-load. Buffalo Bore 500 JRH brand is what I will purchase and use in my double-action revolver. I would prefer 500 Smith and Wesson magnum brass cut-down as I want all empty cases to eject with authority, when the revolver is inverted and the ejector-rod is activated.
A moon clip set-up would solve the issue of uniform ejection definitively, but that is cost prohibitive for me at this juncture. All sauce for the goose as the saying goes.

I only responded to your double-action comment because he stated that he has a BFR (and the BFR was cut for the bigger rim). Don't read more into it as there was nothing more to it than that. And, I don't doubt your experiences.

On another note, my X-frame never experienced ejection problems with either brass, but I rarely put .500 JRH ammo through it as I have other revolvers for that and well, it's a .500 Smith, so why put up with the bulk unless you're shooting full-length ammo, but that's just me!

Peace Brother! I am me and you are you and personal liberty with your guns are yours. I am into what I need and nothing more. But in time I will try full-blown 500 Smith and Wesson MAGNUM with a 525 grain wide-nose gas-check bullet at upwards of 1500 fps at the muzzle.
That is 500 Maximum territory with a straight .500 caliber bullet versus the .511 caliber of the 500 Maximum. But a 440 grain at 1350 fps ought to suffice for a pig.

My X-frame weighs just a slight amount over 60 ounces so it does not seem overly large to me. It has a 6.5 inch long half-lug barrel with integral muzzle brake setup. Out of that length of barrel I think the 500 JRH will burn more efficiently than a full-length 500 Smith and Wesson magnum full-power load.

I use a HF mini cut off saw and a jig I got off E bay do a search 500 JRH jig.I check the jig cut with a piece of 1/2" dowel before I cut cases my jig needs shimmed out just a little.

LOL! I too come in peace, Jeff! I spent a lot of intimate time with a .500 Maximum, and a 525 at 1,500 fps is WAY over pressure, in the 50,000 psi range and not good at all for a Maximum which essentially a stretched Blackhawk. Normal hot loads run right around 38,000 psi. You should be able to handily beat that in your .500 Smith if you so desire! And those revolvers were built with that 62,000 psi ceiling in mind.

Thanks guys. I have looked at the Jig on ebay and think I will be getting one of those and the HF Chop saw. Seems to be the quickest way to get thru a bag of brass.

If you buy the one On ebay I'd send a message and tell him to make sure he sends you the new style.The first one I got the cases didn't fit very well.I sent him some cases the replacement jig works fine.

Oh. My mistake. I read somewhere a 500 Maximum could approach that and I wanted to get close to that with my 500 Smith and Wesson magnum. So I will keep the 50,000 psi in mind. I think keeping the 500 S&W magnum is better in the 50,000 to 55,000 psi and not pushing it to 60,000 or more. Increased pressure correlates to faster recoil impulse. The 454 Casull at 65,000 psi is an example of that. You are quoted as calling the 454 Casull the 378 Weatherby of the revolver cartridge world in terms of great recoil impulse. I would agree...