45 Colt hardcast

What have you guys used in your 45 Colt for hardcast, and have you been happy with it?

I have only used the 335g hardcast from Cast Performance. They did very well for me, but thinking about trying something different. Something lighter. Don't know that I'd want to go any heavier, but I did find some 360's from Cast Performance. I would think those would be better suited in the 454 Casull or the 460 S&W though. I found some as light as 200g, and almost any weight between those two extremes.

Also, a quick casting question- Is it worth getting a mold, and pouring my own? Can I pour 100% lead, then quench in water to add hardness, or does that not add enough?

I only use the 335g hardcast from Cast Performance.

I shoot a 250 gr Berry FP bullet that they no longer make. I have been very happy with how they shoot. Not really tried them on anything to speak of. Hard to beat a 250 XTP

I run a 300gr WFN-GC from Matt?s Bullets out of my 5.5in Ruger SBH Bisley @ 1,227 fps.

I load 335's cast performance for my sons bear loads and 250 gr xtp's for everything else until I ran out and couldn't find anymore. I just loaded him some Speer deep curls. accuracy is great and performance is yet to be tested. hogs this spring should give them a test.
I think you could find a 250 grn bullet that you like, find an accurate load and kill just about anything on 4 legs

Thanks. Might try a 250 and see how it goes.

Raptortrapper
"A lot of people are like a slinky: Not much fun till you push them down the stairs!"
Not to side track this tread, I couldn't help from saying this puts a smile on my face every time i see your posts:)

CAST BULLET SELECTION DEPENDS A LOT ON WHAT YOU MAY WANT TO USE THEM FOR AND ON, AND AT WHAT VELOCITIES YOU WOULD LIKE TO USE THEM AT.

I PREFER TO KEEP MY CAST BULLET LOADS AT 1,300fps AND UNDER SO AS TO LESSEN THE RISK OF TOO MUCH LOSS OF BULLET INTEGRITY. MOST OF MY CAST BULLET 45 COLT REVOLVER SHOOTING OCCURS WITH BULLETS UNDER 300grs. 2 FAVORITES FOR EVERYDAY LOADS ARE THE COMMERCIAL CAST (BOTH BB) RNFP 250gr AND SWC 255gr BULLETS, WHICH I NOW PREFER COATED RATER THAN LUBED. THE RNFP IS A SURPRISINGLY ACCURATE AND EFFECTIVE BULLET.

THE ONLY HP CAST BULLET I CURRENTLY USE IN 45 COLT IS A COATED 275gr SWC HP SUPPLIED BY SIXSHOT, WHICH I USE IN A 10 INCH CONTENDER FOR DEER AND HOGS.

I use a self cast 270gr hp, powder coated from a M-P mold group buy several years ago. Loaded over a decent charge of Unique gives me an honest 1050 fps.

HA!! Well, I came across that years ago, and it still makes me laugh as well.

Yeah, I understand the velocity thing. I kept the 335gr LNFP to slower velocities as well. My "hot" load was 1175fps with H110, and the light load was 850fps with Titegroup. I never was to interested in the hollowpoint stuff if it wasn't an XTP. Never ran those out of a 45 Colt though. It was only in the 10mm and the 460 S&W.

I don't want to have a bunch of loads. I prefer one light load, and one hot load. If I'm hunting, I use the hot load. Otherwise, I use the lighter one. Well, if it's deer, I'll still use the lighter one, but keep a couple hot's in my pocket in case a bear shows up.

I think I'll try the 250's for a light load, and use the 335's for a hot load. Yeah, I know it will change POI a little bit, but I think I'm smart enough to deal with that.

What about the casting part of my original question? Russel, do you add anything to your lead? Can I use pure lead, and quench them in water to get them hard enough for the loads / velocities that were mentioned above?

I use WW and powder coat- no leading at all and as hard as you will want. super accurate. I dont know about the pure lead answer. i have always used WW and have not worried about it.

Thanks for this. How do you do this with the wheel weights and keep the different metals from separating? I've read that some guys used candle wax to flux the metal before skimming the crud off the top. Does this really work??

when you heat it up to molten the impurities will come to the top (dross). a pea size piece of pure beeswax will help get the dross to come to the top. skim it off and keep stirring until it is all gone make sure when you are using WW that you are getting just the lead ones and not steel or magnesium as this will ruin your formula. the learning curve is not steep if you see it done - watch a youtube video and be careful and you will be fine. I powder coat afterwards to keep from having to lube the bullets- i still run them thru the sizer afterwards.
Sixshot is the expert here and was gracious enough to answer some PC questions for me.

360 grain Oregon Trail bullet with Brian Pierce's data from Handloader magazine. Out of my 4 5/8" Blackhawk it got 1247fps 1/2 grain less than his load. Very malleable alloy but still hardness in the 21 range. Accurate to boot.

A lot of the "crud" forming on top of the lead isn't impurities. It's the good stuff ie the alloying metals. When the lead alloy is heated, the tin, antimony etc come out of solution and form oxides on the surface. If you scrape it off and discard it then you are lowering the alloy content. The role of the wax, or other agent (I use sawdust), is to setup a redox reaction whereby the metal oxides are reduced back into solution and the carbon in the wax etc is oxidized into CO and CO2 (Note: hence the need for good ventilation).

I have a Lee mould that drops 319 grain WFN gas check bullets cast from wheel weights. Out of the mould and into a bucket of water to quench them. They are 1,150 fps out of my 7.5" Blackhawk and have went all the way through anything I've shot with them.


-Eric-