has anybody done this to thier gun?

http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm

how did it work? any negatives to doing so?

JMHO for about $15 you can buy a good set of springs and allow the gun to function as designed.

@ 15 bucks you will not be that poor

Looks good and easy to do....but does it nullify your factory warranty?

i did mine. i like it just fine. i'm not dumb enough to think it's as good as it can be by a good workover by a smith, with spring changes etc, but it satisfies me. pull was greatly reduced.

like the article's author, i'm not into taking one down myself, and it's faster/easier/cheaper than hiring it done. besides, i can still do it later on if i find the need.

how would it nulify the factory warranty? all you'd have to do is put the one leg back on, n it's back to it's original state....or close.

I've done it on all my BH/SBHs for 30ish years. Helps alot & never a problem.

If I could not get a qualified and Trusted smith to do a trigger job, I would just live with what I have.

Why take the chance with such a critical part of your gun?

what kinnda chance?? it's not that "critical".

you simply lift the end of a wire off a peg after removing the grip panel. no further modifications, unless you want more. there is a great deal of difference before/after.

you can actually just change the trigger and hammer spring by only removing the grip panels. It takes about 5 minutes to change both springs.

......and there's a man who knows. he is also one to take care of the whole deal....action job etc. he does revolver work!

i'm not into deep gunsmithing. way too skeerd! wap....you don't even have to take the grip frame off to change those springs? if it was really really easy, i think i'd try a trigger spring change, but simple for a real smith, is not necessarily easy for me....lol.

Rod's right, I've gone that way. So easy I can do it... But since I'd have to order the spring kit etc (did my wife mention I'm lazy, cheap, & always in a hurry?) I usually settle for this with very noticeable results.

Don't own a Ruger SA that hasn't had a 'poorboy's trigger job' applied to it right out of the box.

Kyode, all you have to do is take the grips off and then cock the hammer, you'll see a small hole in the bottom of the hammer strut below the spring. Just take a small nail or pin punch and put in the hole and let the hammer down. Next just work the strut and spring out the side of the grip frame, sometimes it can be a little tight and you have to wrestle with it a little. Note the direction of the bend in the strut so you don't try to put it in backwards. To change the hammer spring put the top of the strut in a vice tightly, next take a standard pair of pliers and grab the spring retainer which is being held on by the nail. Push down on the retainer and remove the nail and then let up slowly so you don't get slammed by the spring. Installation is just reverse. To change the trigger spring just unhook the spring legs as on the poorboy but take both off. If you follow the spring legs forward you will see a small pin in the grip frame, this will generally push out very easily with hand pressure. Once the pin is out just pull the spring out and slide in the new one and re insert the pin. Don't hook the legs back up until you re install the hammer strut assembly. A couple tips I can give you, when reinstalling the strut pull the hammer back to full cock and you can see the recess the strut goes into, next uncock the hammer and push up against the bottom of the strut and should go most if not all the way up into it's slot. On the trigger spring the only thing you have to watch for is getting it under where it's supposed to be on the trigger but if you do this you'll see it protruding through the gap between the back of the trigger and gripframe. If any of you want to try this and run into problems I'm more than happy to walk you through it. The springs make a world of difference and basicly make up half of my action jobs, the rest is in honing and polishing components.

nope will not do it again. some say its ok others say not, so i tried it for myself. some improvement on the sbh, not as much as i expected. so i says self lets try it on the single six. had this gun for 30 years. it's my fishing/ woods bum gun, its never had any issues. after i removed one leg the hammer would only cock half way sometimes. didnt matter if i cocked it slow or fast about one or two out of ten the gun would lock up. note this did not happen with the sbh. well both guns are back to normal i'll just shoot the hell out of the sbh and get it worn that way.

I've tried the poor boy trick on 2 Rugers. One is a Single Six Bisley, the other is my Accu-Sport Bisley. The Accu-Sport felt weird afterward, like the spring was dragging on somehting while cocking the hammer - which doesn't make any sense. I put that one back. The Single Six works fine and brought the trigger down to a much more useable pull.

The Accu-Sport later got a Power Custom half-cock kit. It includes a new hammer, trigger, set of different power mainsprings and a new trigger spring. I did NOT use the weaker trigger spring or mainspring and the pull is still a little on the "too light" side for me. With the lighter trigger spring in it, it was scary light.

Changing the mainspring could cause issues for you. It slows lock-time, so your accuracy could suffer and the weaker mainspring can cause light firing pin hits which could either fail to fire or even cause poor iginition when loads do fire, again leading to accuracy issues. The guys I know go with a HEAVIER 28lb mainspring.

I have heard that the trigger return spring can be bent slightly to reduce it's power instead of replacing it. Haven't tried it.

The dragging feeling you felt is the leg dragging on the hammer spring.

I've never had the lighter hammer springs cause and issue, if the gun misfires with a 17lb spring the headspace is bad or the firing pin worn. As far as lock time goes the difference is so minute that if you pull a shot with a light spring you would have with the heavy spring. The heavier springs put more tension against the sear engagement points and make it a pain to cock. I use 17 to 19lb hammer springs and on my conversion guns I'll use the same spring weights except with a round hammer strut.

Generally if you just switch the springs you'll come out with an avg of 2.5lb trigger pull but after I work the action the 30oz trigger spring and new hammer spring normally run 1 3/4 to 2.0lbs with no creep. I'll set them heavier for those that want it but so far all my customers have liked them light.

I like to have a little something to put my trigger finger against before it fires. With the Power Custom stuff and the lighter return spring, just "finding" the trigger from outside the guard would set it off. With the stock spring back in it, I have to remember not to "load" the trigger as my sights settle.

Where does a fellow T/C shoot buy these springs? I would like to improve the trigger on my G-2 frame.

The T/C is a different animal. If you want to learn about improving the trigger on a T/C visit Mike Bellm's website.

Poor boys trigger job improved my SBH a TON. Mabey not as good as it could be, but much better than it was, and good enough for me.

MN

Yesterday I installed a trigger spring I got some time ago from Rod and my Bisley is like a different gun, although I was fine with it as it was (original) too. I tried the one-legged factory spring and then the lighter aftermarket spring and the aftermarket spring is the way to go, IMO. The pull weight is pretty similar either way, but the lighter spring with both legs hooked up just felt better to me.

Thanks,

I'll check out Mike's site