I have been considering reloading a lot lately. I think buying a 44 might finally push me over.

It looks like a 240 xtp and a 300 xtp have a very similar trajectory between 50 and 100 yards. I am thinking the 240 at 1300 fps would be a good practice and hunting load for someone else wanting to hunt with it. I would use the 300 at 1350 for my hunting duties.

My main motivation is cost. It looks like I could reload the 240 for $16.62 for a box of 50. I made this handy spread sheet for calculating reload costs and it seems like it would save me a good bit. I paid $60 for a box of 50 300 grain HP's from double tap, I just can't shoot very much for that.



I think it might be worth it.

I could always go lower for the light load but I would have to hold over or adjust the scope every time I shoot because I would get too much drop.

No need to beat yourself up now. I'm not sure you can get there in a wheelgun anyway but even @ 1,200FPS the 300 will kill with authority.

Reloading is absolutely worth it, moreso than just monetary savings which will allow you to shoot more. You can tailor a load for your liking, recoil versus terminal balistics, etc.

Plus, it is quality time with yourself.

Ya, what Rod said... LOL

Your right about the hunting and plinking loads as well. I have been fortunate to find a combo that shoots very close to one another at 100 yards.

the reason the trajectory is so similiar is the ballistic coefficient of the bullet. It's the same reason I shoot 180gr Nosler BT's and Accubonds out of my 300Win mag but I could get around 200fps more out of a 150 or 165gr bullet of the same style. Because of the better BC of the longer bullet though my trajectory is about the same, the heavier bullet sheds speed slower and the heavier bullet retains more energy downrange. Alot of guys get too wrapped up in velocity and what you'll eventually find is there is normally a middle point that gives you the best of both worlds. It's like the 460XVR being toted as the fastest revolver out there at 2300fps + but to me it's just an advertising gimmick. I know there are guys that like the 200gr Hornady ammo but the gun is more effective with 260 or 300gr bullets.

For a practice load you can use a different powder that will get you down to 8-9 grs per load and use a swagged bullet. Your overall pratice cost could be cut in half!

I looked at a few powders and if I was loading strictly for practice I might go that route.

I am also thinking about pushing the reloading equipment back awhile and getting a s&w 617!

I use H110 and then if I want something lighter I go with HS6. I try to keep the amount of powders down and I already have too many types for all the rifle cartridges I load for, not to mention the 30lbs or so of black powder I have after buying those 23lbs of the KIK powder from my customer. My great grand kids will still be able to shoot my front loaders

I plan on getting H110 for the 300 grain, that seems to be everyone's go to powder for heavy hunting loads

Just so you know, you won't save a dime reloading..... but you will shoot a lot more.

IMO a person will never learn to be an excellent handgunner without reloading, and without a .22. You'll need both, to learn to excel.
On a separate note, regarding 300 gr. bullets, I've been known to use bigger bores than .44 and heavy bullets as well, but if deer and hogs, for example, are the size game you will hunt, a .44 240 gr. will kill any deer that ever lived. No real need for the heavies with that game. But sometimes people want what they want ....

reloading will not really save you money - you will probably find out that you can just afford to shoot more with the same $$$ which is not bad either.

you may find out, though, that, once you get the hang of it, your own QC will result in better quality, more consistent ammo that is more accurate than off the shelf gun candy.

if you look around for hard cast lead bullets and a cheap 8lb keg of a decent powder, you may get a plinking or practice load well below the afore mentioned $16 per 50.

HS-6 and bulk primers can be had for a lot less if you get together with buddies and place a bulk order, e.g. with Powdervalley.

One thing I like about the spread sheet is that it breaks down the cost of each round, so I can tell that bullets are by far the most expensive thing on there. If I want to try a differnt load I just have to put in a few values, its mindless. I found some cheap plated bullets that brought my total down to $12 for 50 but I am not sure I want to use them.

Thanks for powder valley, I had never heard of it so I guess I will give them a try. My plan is to buy 8# of powder in what every I buy so I can develop loads and leave them there, not changes due to batches, no paying shipping again, and I am sure that it will last me long enough that when its time to buy more powder it will be outrageously expensive and will have saved me plenty.

My main objective is to be able to shoot when I want and not get sticker shock every time I buy a $30 box for plinking.

On a side note, has anyone used this rest? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/517357/...isting-_-517357

If you spend the 15.00 for the LEE ballistic program it has a ammo cost calculator, you just enter a couple values it asks you for and tells you how much it's costing you. The cool thing though is you have a bunch of other calculators and logs as well as the ballistic program itself. It's a great program for beginners or guys like me that aren't going to shoot much past two or three hundred yards and usually more like under one hundred since I'm shooting revolvers. If you ever get heavy into it the get a more advanced program. They actually have the program on closeout special at Midway for 11.00 because it's about 4 years old which of course in anything technical is an antique.

Here is the link to Midway.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/100131/lee-the-shooter-program-software-cd-rom

I thought for sure someone would have brought this up, but maybe I missed it.

You need to take into account that your bullet will go transonic at about 75 yards resulting in inaccuracy.
External ballistics: The transonic problem

I load to about 1050fps with my 357 to avoid transonic effect.

cabelas had 300gr xtps 44 cal on sale the other day, forget when sale ends or price, but i ordered 3 boxes

Those will work fine but you are gonna have to back down the velocity a bit. Your best bet for cheap practice would be a Single Six.

For those who are not too familiar with the sight, Mr. Gary has a few programs available to the members of this great sight. Another great resource is beartoothbullets.com over in the bulletishions center.

+1 for reloading.

But

Be aware, Reloading is a hoddy in itself.

Cast boolits instead. Find free WW's. You can get cost down to powder and a primer. You can approach the .44 for about what good .22's cost.

What are "WW's"?

Wheel weights ;-)

You are correct. I cast my bullets and I reload .45acp, .45lc,.44mag,.38sp all for under 6 cents per round or $60.00 per 1000. I actually hunt with my .45lc and .44mag practice loads.

And it used to be easy finding wheel weights. Now, not so much.

If some, like me... du, had a scockpile of pure lead, could we add "stuff" to it to make if compatible in composition to WW's?? If so, what??????

ps, been doing quite a bit of casting and I am loving it!! You should see what my 300 Whisper shooting a 130gr 30 cal bullet out at 1850 fps with blue dot does to a 3/4in steal plate. It is putting a significantly bigger craters in it than my 325gr 480 Ruger going 1400 fps...

Where do y'all find WW's now? Local tireshop or car dealership?
A friend of mine casts his .40's and .45's and I'm sure he'd cast me some if I asked him nicely.

TCTex, just don't shoot at pistol steel, please.
I just obtained a nice 8" cut along my hand and wrist at a match due to a ricochet (at distance) from one of those cratered steel plates.You probably already know that. Perhaps someone who did not know reads this, though.

well I went to a gun show today and one of the booths had a bunch of ammo and reloading supplies. I looked at the reloading stuff and they had the cheapest powder I have found. a pound of h110 was $20. No shipping, no hazmat, out the door. They had a bunch of 8 pound containers of everything but h110. There is another show in January that I might go and grab some powder. I have there number and can call to see if they will be there.

I think I will get me at least a starter collection of reloading supplies soon. To get started would this work?

Press, scales, dies, powder trickle, something to seat primers

What else?

......powder dispenser, case lube and pad, shell holders and a comfortable stool.

X2 on what KRal said.

If you buy a Ruger or S&W, you might find 296 to be more accurate.
Yes, the exact same powders but a slight different burn rate to canister.
I worked with many Red Hawks and none liked 296, preferring H110 but the SBH and SRH shot much better with 296. So did the S&W 29's.
Check any recycle places in your area for WW's. Many will sell you a bunch.
Pure lead needs antimony and tin added.

Look at some of the reloading kits available, they will often save you money over buying individually. Most of the major manufactures produce such kits. LEE, RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, and Redding all make kits with the LEE being the best bang for the buck being right around a $100.00 bill. The LEE stuff works great and will allow you more freed up money for components and if you want as you move along you can upgrade to a different press or a digital scale or even an autmatic powder dispenser. The Lee kit comes with a scale, powder dispenser, press, dippers (I don't use them but some do), powder funnel, load book and I believe it also comes with a hand priming tool. I might be missing something but anyways it is a complete kit so just add components and dies and your off and running. One more warning, reloading can be addictive.

And it is on sale right now at MidwayUSA. I use Lee presses for all my loading, especially their turret press. The single stage kit is a great investment. I don't care for Lee dies so much but their presses are just dandy.

My plan is to not use a powder dispenser. I will use a combination of a plastic spoon, powder trickler, scales, and a powder funnel.

Maybe one day I will get on of the electric dispenser/scales combinations but I want every charge to be measured and a normal dispenser just seems like a waste in that case.

huh? use a dispenser and set it to throw say 2 grains light. then trickle it up. done it for a long time till I bought a RCBS. you set the trickler to cast right into the pan on the scale

Why??? buy the $25 Lee it works great--If you want to spend more Buy a RCBS or Lyman
Saves lots of time and works great

also a lee auto prime is great. I dont care for the press priming systems that prime on the down stroke

Can't say anything good about the Lee priming system on their progressives but the little handheld is nice and enhances your QC on your brass.

The Lee Loadmaster is actually not that bad except for their priming station. I say RIP THAT THANG OUT! and prime off the press. The plastic priming station will drive you MAD!!! after just a Thousand rounds or so.

The carbide dies produce great ammo and the "factory crimp die" eliminated my chamber checks years ago.

I even like the powder charge disks. When you need to get a charge inbetween the volumina of two subsequent sizes, just whip out the dremel and adjust to the charge size you need. A new disk costs next to nothing.

The "bomber brand" clear goggles are cheap, weigh almost nothing and give good eye protection without distorting your view. IOW, buy some decent safety goggles that you can wear for hours at a time.

Oh, one more thing. Bought a Lee scale and considered it utter junk.

Forgive me for writing an opinion piece but I don't want you to waste money on junk.

ive used lee dies, dippers, and a hand press for almost 20 years. got an old rcbs scale to get even charge. not a bad set up for people with no space. you can use it anywhere, it slow and relaxing. almost too relaxing, found myself smoking once while reloading DONT DO THAT. now my pipe is no where near when i reload.

Ok so I hate to bring this up but....

Looking for a press. I live in an apartment and there is no room for a permanent set up so I will need something that I can mount on the bar and be able to take down when I am finished. Can I mount the press on a 2x6 and use c-clamps to attach it to the bar? If I can do that then I need to find a press.

Looking at presses I have found really 2 types, cast aluminum and cast iron. I take it the cast iron are the better of the 2, but how bad is the aluminum? And how heavy is the Fe? I would rather have the strength but now if it is going to weigh a ton.

Other than that, what kind of dies? I don't plan to start reloading for any rifles at first but will maybe next summer.

I use Lee presses and RCBS dies. The Lee Challenger kit is a nice package to get started for <$100 at MidwayUSA right now. Aluminum is plenty strong for a reloading press. You can certainly mount the press to a board and then clamp the board to a table.