I've always been a big bore revolver guy but recently decided to by a g2 contender in 375jdj, about once in every 15-20 rounds it will dimple the primer but there's no ignition. I'm using winchester large rifle primers. if any of you have encountered this I'd appreciate any info on resolving it. Also wanted to know if any of you had used anything besides the hornady bullets and what kind of performance it gave. i live about five miles from nosler so i'm down there often and they said there 260grAccubond should expand effectivly out to 200yds with my gun, but thats all theory.

almost forgot, the only other barrel i have is a 22lr and it has never misfired while using the rimfire barrel

I had the same thing happen on my contender .223 barrel when I was using a hammer extension. The one I had just wouldn't fire the small rifle primers even though it works fine with the .22LR barrel. Just a thought.

did you try it without the hammer extension, because mine also has one

wapitirod,

You might want to look at this article...

Another possible cause for your misfires

stush, i could'nt find the article, where is it at

could be a sizing problem. headspace has to be correct or it can lead to misfires. push the shoulder back too far.....misfire(but the rim would have to be too deep). not bump the shoulder back far enough, and.......misfire.

check that first.

I ran into this problem several years ago when I loaded my first batch of 7mmTCUs. I was pushing the shoulders of the cases to far back, while resizing them. My solution to the problem was to back the sizing die out a little.

You could raise the ram and shell holder to the top of the stroke. Screw your sizing die down till it touches the shell holder then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to start. It may or may not take more. Finish loading that round, you could make it a dummy round, and make sure you gun locks up tight when you close it.

This should cure you misfires. Especially if this is a new gun.

yes it it is a new gun, only have about 100-150 rounds through it. thanks for the advice I'll give it a try.

For Stuch's article click on "Another possible cause for your misfires " in his post.

thanks vance, I'm not what you would call computer literate, I didn't even realize you could make a post like that, but i'm learning assuming i don't take this machine to the range first.

I'm learning too Rod, so I can relate!
By the way, I was raised in Klamath Falls, & lived there until I moved to Alaska in '88.

I've never had any trouble with my 375JDJ going off. I did have some trouble with the 7-30 & 223 and installed a new hammer spring and that fixed it.
I shoot Hornady 220grn flat points in my 375JDJ and Sierra 220grn FP's. Both shoot same impact at 100yds and I can't tell that either one is better. I have shot some Hornady 270grn SP's but only to see where they hit at 100 yds. I went to the 260 Nosler Accubonds and they will print about an inch @ 100yds with Varget powder. I load the 220grn for deer, hogs and such and have worked up a load with the 260grns for elk and anything bigger.

Mike

Hey,
Are you using spray case lube ?

no, i use a lube pad

Try changing the primer to CCI. I know that sounds silly but I just went through the same thing with an Encore and Federal primers. Blamed it on the hammer extender, took it off, NADA.
It could be that you're oversizing, it's more likely that you're oversized, i.e. the cases are too long, or shoulder too far forward, preventing deactivation of the hammer block mechanism. Next time that happens put the same shell in and snap the action shut forcefull.
If it does go off then it's most likely that you either have to push the shoulder back (just a bit) or the cases need trimming for length.

thanks I'll try that too, I did remove my extractor last night and dropped in a round and it was .0055 below flush with the barrel, so I'm goin to adjust my headspacing also. I'll let you all know what happen. THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE INFO.

thats it! you never ever want it to go below flush with the chamber.
ideally, the case after sizing needs to be protruding above flush a couple thousandths less than the measured barrel to frame gap.
i have a "bellm headspace indicator" that makes taking that measurement(case head above chamber)much easier. it is hard to see a few thousandths either way with the naked eye. handy lil tool for the money,imo.

with a properly sized case, you may even see improved accuracy.

http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php

You are right KYODE that headspace guage works great. Magman and I got one a couple weeks ago. I was having trouble with the 243 closing hard. Had the RCBS die adjusted all the way to the shell holder. The guage was telling me the case was .010" above the barrel, too much. I grabed an old set of BAIR 243 dies I had and started adjusting down, got the headspace perfect. Frame closes easy and fires ever time. About .003" is right on the money. Fired cases read about .005" to .006" out of the barrel. Love that guage.

thanks kyode, i'll check into the tool

kyode, that's a pretty cool website, even though my wife may not agree. i ordered the gauge and a few other goodies

hope i don't get ya in too much trouble

tigger.........that is great to hear. i havn't heard many people say a lot about it. i got the headspace indicator tool and was impressed at first viewing. after using it, i was even further impressed.
it can also be used to seat your bullet a known distance from the lands. seat a bullet long and then just keep adusting the seating stem down, then reinserting into chamber until the case protrudes the same amount predetermined in sizing. your bullet is then touching the lands, or extremely close.


didn't know if i was the only one that liked using it or not........was thinkin maybe i was "easy" er sumpin lol

i think ol wes is sellin em at kts ammo also. i forgot about that
http://ktsammo.250x.com/

not in any trouble yet, she don't know, and actually it worked out good because bellm is only about 75 miles from me as the crow flies, i just never knew they existed.

Oh yeh, don't it drive ya nuts. I have two frames and two bbls, two years ago, my 35 rem bbl started misfiring, I was advised that that cartridge has a lot of head space problems, I had misfires on old brass and once fired brass, and even factory loads, so I bought new brass and very carefully neck sized, I found that if I fired primed only brass it fired every time, but loaded stuff misfired every time, spent a year, missed critical shots due to misfires, even had five misfires IN A ROW at one doe, she became so nonplussed, that she went back to eating, had to let the redhawk earn its keep, anyway one summer evening when I was in the shop figuring and watching NASCAR, I tried shooting loaded rounds with the barrel pointing down,success, sort of, then it dawned on me there might be too much "rolling weight" I pulled the Hammer extension off, which had been on the gun since I started shooting contenders in '81, and voilla, fired every time, reinstalled the HE and misfired first try. result... new hammer springs, at two bucks a piece and now it fires every time, even with the hammer extension.

I have seen this several times. It is typically as a few of the other guys noted, tight headspace. The gun doesn't quite go shut to the point that the barrel bolt fully engages. I know a guy that shoots factory 35 Rem ammo... he "resized" his ammo by firmly chambering and closing them into his gun. If he didn't cycle them first, he experienced misfires too. I also suggest that you give the barrel bolt a good cleaning and coat it with a little moly Z powder (or graphite) All it takes is a speck of powder to cause the bolt to hang up. Good luck!

If your misfire problem is happening during the fireforming of new brass, it should go away the next time you load. Also check to see if your bullets are not seated deep enough and are hitting in the throat of the chamber.

I had this problem with new 35 Rem brass, so I bought a 375 neck expander die to ope the nuck up then resized it down to 35 to my specs and the problem went away. It usually only happens during fireforming, so now I size just enough to have the gun really hard to close, fireform and then no more problems. All the hammer return springs on my Contenders have been replaced just to make sure. I had a problem with Winchester primers so I changed to Federal and that seemed to help too. I made so many changes I'm not really sure what fixed it, but I have no more problems with misfires even with hammer extensions. Good luck. All the info you received should solve problem(except with your wife that is).

it seems like there are a couple of possibilities so I'm covering my bases. I'm changing my headspacing and primers, and I just ordered a spring kit from bellm, so I'll give it a try and see what happens.

wapitirod, you may also want to consider cleaning your frame. I know Bellm disagrees with my cleaning approach, saying I might get rust, but it has never been a problem for me. What I do is pour boiling water into the frame and douse it really good (take off the barrel and grip first). This will clean out any grime that has built up (i.e. dust together with oil). Bellm says to use a good solvent instead. Either way, a good cleaning fixed my problem which only seemed to happen in cold weather.
Changing the spring on the barrel's locking bolt is a good idea as well. A stronger spring will help insure a good lockup. I think it may be even more important than the frame springs for your problem.