Is there anyone here that actually performs this and if so, did it make a difference? TNX

The only difference in lapping vs not lapping is the performance and function of the optics. It's a tough thing to really tell a difference with. But to best ensure that you scope will adjustable reliably, have its optimal clarity and last its longest, then it is best to lap the rings. I do this with ALL my rings, even on .22's.

The other option is to use Burris Signature Rings with the plastic inserts.

In theory it will make a difference IF the scope rings do not put the properly mounted scope in perfect relation with the bore.

In reality, since by a huge percentage most shooters do not lap the rings, it is not necessary unless you are using your scope at "its ragged edges." More so, for the longer ranges where you need maximum elevation settings.


But then, if you are a perfectionist, it is not a bad idea to do so.

Sorry for the ignorance here, but what exactly is lapping? I'm one of those "perfectionist" you speak of, and will be getting a 460 S&W with a leupold scope in a couple weeks.

Must excuse my ignorance as well, hope someone clears this up for us.

Lapping the scope rings is where they are trued up while on the base with a device so they are more or less perfectly concentric with each other so that the scope tube sits in them without any uneven torque or stress when mounted on the scope base and screws tightened. Scope base/scope ring/firearm combinations may not be in perfect alignment due to manufacturing tolerances, and sometimes by design. Some scope rings have adjustments for side to side tolerances such as the Millett brand. I remember some rings would change their alignment just by reversing them; and it stated so in the mounting instructions.

http://www.cabelas.com/tools-accessories-wheeler-professional-scope-mounting-kits.shtml

One "shade tree" method to get an idea if yours are close or way off is to go ahead and mount your rings to your base and tighten them. Remove the top half of the ring. (This method obviously will not work with the vertically split rings.)

Set your scope firmly in the bottom half of the mounted rings. Using a flashlight, check that all surfaces between scope rings and scope meet perfectly and squarely without any gaps or unevenness.

Even when this all checks out good, when the top half of the scope ring is put on and tightened it can still throw it off due to the screw holes not being drilled perfectly in alignment. I remember when the old Redfield steel rings were made way back when, they were machined from a solid block of steel, then drilled and then the rings cut in half, and each matched bottom and top ring set were kept together and sold that way, so that each set was as perfect as manufacturing methods back then could make them. To maximize this benefit you would put the top half of the ring back on exactly the way it came off.

A piece of 1 inch cold rolled bar stock works well. Very uniform. Centerless ground bar stock is even better.



WVS329

Very informative thread guys, thanks. Question though, is it pointless to lap the rings for a scope that has already been installed and shot?

I've never had a need to lap rings period, so I would say if its working, don't fix it.

I would agree.

Even though I know better.

I'm lenient if things are pretty close which most are but if I have a concern I have an actual reamer that will cut the rings to match. It's a little quicker and more precise.

I agree with Waptirod about the reamer being a better choice. Both Clymer and Manson make quality scope reamers. If you have ever seen a scope with linear scars on its sides, it came from rings that were uneven. The older Ruger factory rings and SAKO rings were notorious for scarring scopes because of poor fit. Tightening down the rings would drive the sharp inside edges of the rings against the scope, and the scarring would be caused because the sharp edge was the only thing touching the scope. In addition to reaming horizontal rings, I take a fine file and knock off the sharp inner edges of the rings. Makes for a more secure fit with both old and new scopes/rings.

TNX for the additional information.

This more or less fits the bill for me. I did it for peace of mind lol.