What do you guys think of the rings that come with the Ruger Revolvers? Im thinking of using them on my RSBHH. I have a weigand mount and a set of Millet rings but to me the scope sits up a little high causing me to do some cranking to get the scope sighted in and its still off. The Ruger rings actually sit the scope pretty close to the barrel . I dont know anything about the rings thats why Im asking.

They will work just fine. I used them on a SRH in 454 and am currently using them on a SBHH in 44. Not a problem yet.

I agree. They work rather well. They are tough.

Rite on rlb, Im putting them on as we speak with loctite. Actually they dont look bad either not to mention they put the scope closer to the barrel. I was just curious of how durable they were.

The rings work fine, but can be hard on the scope tube. If you don't have a lapping kit, take some fine sandpaper or emery and beburr the inside ring surfaces, especially the edges.

Can you get your gun sighted in with your current setup? Just because you need to make elevation adjustments does not make the setup bad. If you can't adjust your scope enough to get sighted in then likely you have an issue with your scope.

Unless you are shooting at a very....very close distance (10 feet or less) the difference in height between the Weigand mount and the Ruger rings will be negligible.

I have the Weigand mount and rings on my SBHH and anything from directly in front of me out past 100 yards is going to get ventilated. I have found it very consistent over the last couple of years.

They are extremely durable. I have been beating on them for years on both my .475 and .500 Linebaugh Super Redhawks.

At about 15yrds Im still roughly 3" low and Ive cranked on the elevation to the point I think Im pass the point of no return . It might be the scope , if it is the scope then I will have to get another one . Even though its a Burris I dont think Burris will fix it cause it has been modified.The finish was a silver finish with alot of rough scuff marks in the finish so I had it polished.

I agree they work pretty good and in general the few moving parts the better. With the 44 the recoil isn't such that three or four rings are a must although the more the better. The only time I recommend the additional mount is if scope position dosn't work and you need more adjustment or if scope damage is a concern. I even used them on rifles in 458 Lott, 338, 7mm on down to 243 and never had a problem.

Well hopefully they will work and the scope isnt bad besides my 44 feels more like a 357.

Heres what she looks like:

DO NOT LOC-TITE RING SCREWS.

I was told a couple yrs ago to loctite the base and rings to keep them from coming loose.The blue loctite only.

I will use a drop on the base screws, but not the ring screws.

Thats all.I do use is a drop

I am very much like yall, I use lock-tight on the bases and not the rings. However, with my TC’s and the issues I have had, I use red lock-tight. IMHO, TC’s have more variables, than their bolt action counterparts, because the base is mounted directly on top of the chamber. In my experiences, this allows more heat transfer to the screws in question. It makes sense if you think about a bolt actions base is mounted to the receiver and not directly on top of the chamber. JMHO…

You might try shimming the scope by using some plastic label tape, or very thin shims inside the rings. You may have to use more than one layer. I had this problem (many) years ago on a rifle, and shimmed the old Burris 3 x 9 with the pop tab from a beer can. Worked very well for many years.

Rite on, I had it out this weekend thinking a miracle was gonna happen after I changed the rings and no luck. I called Burris and was told to send it in for possible repairs even though the previous owner polished it to a hi shine. I was told as lond as it wasnt dipped then its still under warranty.