I have 2 questions. 1- Does the brand of handgun brass make a difference with accuracy? 2- Does it make a difference with accuracy on how deep you seat the bullet? Example, 454 casull using the Hornady 240 gr. XTP Mag, the listed c.o.l. is 1.745. The maximum c.o.l. is 1.765. These figures come from the Hornady manual. I try to hit the mark on the c.o.l. at 1.745 + or - .005 I am loading 31.0 gr. of 2400 and this is not a top end load. Any help,please. Thanks.

Mike- keep your brass sorted by brand, different seating depth"s and mixed brass is going to have different impact points, CONSISTENCY is the key, and keep a detailed journal.

With handgun brass that needs crimping I just load it to the optimum seating depth to put a good crimp in it and don't worry much about it. I like to keep the brass the same age & brand but I've got a lot of 44's that are all mixed up and I don't worry about that either.

If I have different makers of brass I will use the headstamps to identify certain loadings, but it doesn't much matter what I load in which as long as I know which is what.

My biggest concern is that the brass all be trimmed to the same length for a consistant crimp.

Keep the head stamps the same. Different brands will have different internal dimensions and therefore will generate pressure differently. Consistency.

I don't separate my brass,.454 casull,.357 mag.,.44 mag.,.22 hornet,and I haven't had any issues with accuracy-john

I guess you could get away with not sorting brass. Both the Lyman and Hornady books mention the differences in brass and why they should be sorted. Different manufactures have different blueprint standards of brass design.

I have quite a bit of once fired range brass in assorted calibers. I have found that as long as I keep the head stamps the same and sorted life is good. But those are my experiences…

Duane

Right on Tex.

I keep mine sorted to make life easier. Especially when Hornady brass is in the mix, always a pain in the ass shorter than every other brand that I run. As far as accuracy, I can't say that I have noticed with my bullet seating or the different brass I use. I tweak the powder load till my gun likes it.

You are right bladesmith, Hornady brass is shorter. I have bought brand new Hornady brass and I have found about 7 pieces of brass for my 454 that are undersize out of a box of 50. You pay a premium price for Hornady brass and you shouldn't have this problem. I won't buy Hornady brass anymore.

Gary, what is the optimum seating depth? Is this the c.o.l. they recommend in the manual for the caliber/bullet combo you are loading for? Is this what you mean?

Hi Mike,
A quick note on c o l, I have found that it does not make a lot of difference if you are using a single shot. If you are using a revolver,though, you must have a consistent crimp on the case[preferably a heavy one] in the crimp grove, on that caliber. This will prevent what they call"creep out". The bullet walking forwards out of the case on recoil. It will make a difference,sometimes great, on chamber pressure. This will incur a difference in accuracy,as well. Be cautious,watch you pressure signs,and hope this helps. Rick.

Mike,

I will never be able to speak for Gary, but my guess is that he does what most of us do. It will depend a bit on the bullet, as lead bullets have a shoulder on the crimp groove whereas jacketed usually have more of a ring in the bullet. And it will depend a little on the type/make of crimp that you are using.

For lead, I like to try seat so that the crimp will hit the base end of the crimp groove in such a way that the roll of the crimp is touching the lower (base) side of the crimp, without distorting the lead shoulder of the lower end of the crimp groove. For jacketed bullets where the crimp "groove" is just a scored area, I try and do similar thing where the crimp does not distort the jacket below the scored area (cannelure).

Craig