Okay guys, I just got the eamil and the 416 Rigby is on the way. It's being set-up with full vent rib, Brake, and a 2x Leupold that I stole from a guy! I just picked up 100 pcs of brass, 200 350gr Spitzers and I am loading up. Anyone have one of these? I know Gary shoots a 416 Taylor, but what can I expect from a 16 1/2" barrel? Will it really outperform my 16" .444 Marlin and 15" 375 H&H with 300's. I really think both of these calibers post numbers that will be hard to beat, especially for something up-close and personal.

Hi Gerry,
Hey, thats great, I was waiting for someone to do all the work ballisticly before I took the plunge, the 375 H&H barrel is giving me enough trouble with heavy 300 gr loads,
poblems like ripping forend screws out and sliding 6 screw 3 ring scope mounts.
I like to use the rifle forends on these barrels, I don't know why TC can't come up with a better method of holding forends on . Well Good Luck with it
Tony V

I'm a big fan of extreme handgun rounds. I ran your case, bullet, and barrel length through an internal ballistics program I have, and here is some calculated ballistic info for you to chew on.

I assumed 2" of your barrel is muzzle brake leaving 14.5" of barrel, minus case length, leaves approx. 12" of combustion chamber.

Pressure (CUP) Velocity (FPS) Muzzle Energy (FtLbs)
40,200----------------- 2171----- 3662
46,400 OPTIMAL----- 2333----- 4225
50,800 HI PRES.----- 2440----- 4626
56,600 HI PRES.----- 2575----- 5152

I don't want to be responsible for any accidents so I won't publish the receipes.

This will give you an idea what to expect.

You'll also be receiving 95lbs of back thrust to the web of your thumb/hand @ 46,000 cup, and you'll feel it the next day, from your hand up through your shoulder. A 11 lb 460 Weatherby rifle dishes out about 108 lbs.

Use the rubber grip and Past shooting gloves. Your brake will greatly reduce your muzzle rise but its going to be kind of like trying to catch the end of a baseball bat being swung by a pro ball player. Even with the brake.

Use two hands and keep your extra fingers out from behind the trigger guard.

I used 3 aluminum rings and a steel base on my 458 Lott to attach the scope. Believe it or not, it literally streched the rings out so the scope kept loosening within the rings. There are heavy duty steel tactical rings holding it on now so far no troubles.

Good Luck, have Fun, and God Bless your Strong Side Hand

osok

OSOK and Tony Thanks for the info! OSOK,OUCH! That is cool data. I hope it doesn't kick anywhere Tony's BFR!!! The true barrel length is 16 1/2" with the a brake added on to that. I decided to make it sort of like a Katahdin; I didn't want to give up too much ballistically!! TonyV, email me with home email address and I'll send pics to you of my 375 H&H after modification. When I shot it at the SWPA Shoot at Jackson county range, the 17th shot sheared the front fore end screw completely and battered the rear one to where it wouldn't turn. The rifle fore-end actually split enough to displace some wood and it had to be reglued. My gunsmith friend cut a stainless block 2" x 1/2" x 1/2", contoured it and attached it with two hardened cap screws(?) to my barrel as an underlug. I then milled out the fore end and bedded it with stainless bedding comound. The recoil is now spread over a much wider area and has not come loose even a little. It is bedded so tight that there is no movement at all. The front and rear screws stay tight too. I am modifying the 416 barrel the same way. The setup is like the systen tajat was used with the TC Contender Rubber foreends. The Weaver split rings have never moved. I also agree that TC should go to a system like we devised, or maybe even a hanger bar setup is more durable? I do not have, or ever used one of those setups. Ye Haaaaaw, now I can go break my hand!!

I have a 416 Rigby barrel on order. I haven't bought brass or dies yet. Where did you get your stuff? Hopefully you found a bargin basement price. When I get mine, I'd love to swap loads, notes, etc. Keep us posted. I just ordered mine, it may be a while.

Good shootin'

Chris, it took me 13+ weeks to get mine. I turned blue many times holding my breath waiting for it. I start loading tomorrw night. I will definitely share the loading and chrono info. I got the 350 gr bullets on local store closeout, but the brass was very expensive @ $2/each. I don't refer to the 416 stuff as brass anymore; I now consider it either Gold or precious metal!! I hope I can get many loadings before I start replacing. Judging by OSOK's info, I won't be blasting many rounds at a time at the range, but that we'll have to determine later. My 375H&H is stout but I've shot 60+ at a time with that. Yes it lets you know you've shot a beast without killing anything!

Gerry

My only long gun is a 416 Rigby I don't know how much extra advange the 6" of tubes will give me. I'd steer clear of the high pressure loads. That cavernous case was meant for mild low pressure loads. Can PM the loads for 400gr bullets if keen and you can take it from there. I don't think the shorter tube will be a danger (other than perhaps to your wrist .

LT

Now this some seriously fun stuff. EXTREME ENCORE!

What dies are you using?

I ordered new RCBS. I've had great luck with them, although I do use Hornady, Forster, and I have one or two Lee sets. I even have 2 sets of 'Bear' Brand dies.

Ouch... Hope you guys have good health insurance. Otherwise the orthopedic surgeon's gonna own your house soon...

$bob$

Let us know your impression of using the RCBS dies. I only have one set of RCBS, but I like them. I usually buy Redding. For no particular reason.

Chris, I have many RCBS sets and have never had many problems. The only ones I did have was with some decapping pins. For the most part, the are very easy to disassemble and clean. I have two sets of Reddings too. Of all the dies I have I think the Hornady Durachrome are finished the nicest on the exterior, but the interior is what really counts and I think they are all pretty equal if you compare new sets. Mr. Rigby came today, so I will be shooting it through the chronograph real soon. If it's as accurate as the 375H&H is at 300 yards, I will have a tough time deciding on a partner on my Elk hunt this year. I fear that a few Pa white-tail doe are going to pay a terrible price.

My Rigby barrel came today. Not bad, ordered in Febrary. It is a factory barrel that was offered by Cabelas. I need to have it shortened and a brake attached, that shouldn't take too long and then I'll be in business. Let's stay in touch on this, kinda nice to find another Rigby owner. I'm going to try a duoring mount with a Sightron 1x scope I have. Just something to get by and to try. I don't really expect the duomount to last..........but I've got to try. I'm worried about the forearm more than the scope mount right now. It just has the factory holes. I would order a Virgin Valley factory hanger bar, but; man, I wish those guys were still in business.

Who built your barrel? What brake are you using? I've had good results with the JP Howitzer brake on a 300WM. I just might let EABCO put one on the Rigby barrel.

Steve Stratton (formerly of Virgin Valley) is alive and well and still provides the TC world with many accessories under the name of Stratton Custom.

He can be reached at strattoncustom@infowest.com .

Also you can go to www.midwayusa.com and type in Stratton Custom in their search engine and get some of his products.

$bob$

Chris, my 416 is a Cabela's too, but it came with a Hunter MT brake? I'm going to have my smith remove it, cut it 16" and thread the MT on. He is also going to add a recoil bar like the old Pachmyer rubber forends use, and add a vent rib for looks. We'll stay in touch. Gerry

Can you really re-use the TC factory brake? I wonder how it fits the contour of the barrel? How effective is that brake?

Chris, I don't see why it won't come off. They add it , so it can come off, probably by heating. It my gunsmith's problem. If it ruins it, it won't really matter because we'll just add another after shortening it anyway. My barrel is a straight heavy bull, so taper should not be an issue. The brake is ever so slightly larger in diameter anyway. I find the factory TC Hunter brake very effective. All brakes are loud anyway you look (or hear) at them. I will let you know!! Gerry

Thanks Bullelk Hunter. Do keep me posted. I afraid mine may sit for a little while, work, work, work, you know the story, weather gets good and the work piles-up.

I don't think TC threads their brakes on. It looks like the end of the barrel is machined and the brake is silver soldered on the sleeve. That accounts for the few 'brake failures' I've read about with TC factory brakes-however I have never experienced a failure myself! I'm still thinking about what I really want to do with this barrel. I do not have any long Encores, and I am really, totally mesmerized with the 416 Rigby in long form, and I do already have my 375JDJ, 375 H&H and a full house 444 Marlin and 45-70 loaded with heavies for short-range stuff that can be dangerous! Over 5200 ft lb energy is not a matter for the light-hearted. The major problem I have is the same Dan B has. I already have so many rifles....of all calibers and combinations. I will probably cut it to 16" and add a brake and have my own personal 416 Rigby Katahdin!! RSA - you said you'd PM email me some of your load data? That being said, the 416 Rigby can hold more grains of water than my 30-378 Weatherby!!! Ouch!! I asked JD Jones about the big Rigby in an Encore (theory of case-head and pressure) and he implicitly warned me to work up slowly!! More to come shortly!!