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A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk #137902 11/20/2013 9:30 AM
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Bob Roach Offline OP
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I have been shooting my 480 Ruger Super RedHawk quite a bit tuning up for deer season here in Missouri. I have never taken my 9.5 Inch Super RedHawk apart ever. Just cleaned the barrel and cylinder, and a little oil here and their from the outside.

Anyway my cylinder started to bind up. I have had this happen in the past, and knew what the problem was, crud build-up on the crane shaft inside the cylinder.

I had been told that a special tool "no longer offered" by Brownells was required to disassemble the cylinder from the crane.

Well I did a search, and found this to not be the case. All that is required is a couple small punches. The tool probably made disassembly easier, I would guess.

Cylinder Disassembly: Locate the hole drilled on the flat surface of the crane (Part 51). Use a small pin punch inserted in the hole and push down. You will feel the spring-loaded plunger (parts # 22 & 23) move down. While pressing the plunder down, push the latch pivot pin (part #25) out from the inside of the crane. The front latch (part #13), latch plunger (part #26), and latch plunger spring (part #4) will fall out. Pull the ejector rod (part #11) out of the cylinder. Pull the crane (part #51) out of the cylinder. You can accomplish a good cleaning without taking the internal cylinder parts out. Flood the inside of the cylinder hole with a good cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
I cleaned the crane with a rag and solvent, and ended up using a scotchbrite pad to get the hard carbon out. I told you it was dirty.
NOTE: The Parts Numbers should be the same ones you find on the Brownells web site. Do a search for Ruger Parts, and the Exploded Diagram should show up.

I reassembled the crane into the cylinder after lubing with a little assembly lube. Not sure if this was the best lubricant for the job, but I do not plan on letting the internals get this bad again.

NOTE: Do a search for "Cylinder Disassembly Super RedHawk" and you can find a YouTube vidio on doing this that will really help by E. Olemite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwrSW2wbdhY

NOTE 2: You should not need to disassemble the cylinder any further than the above for cleaning. A special slotted screwdriver is required to remove the Left Hand Thread screw (part #60) to get the Ejector parts out of the cylinder. Where further cylinder disassembly is required would be chamfering the chambers, normally only done on a GP100, which comes apart exactly the same. I will end up making the slotted screwdriver, just so I have one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw5kzPAuk3w

I hope this saves someone a little trouble down the road. The Vidio will walk you through taking the Super RedHawk/GP100 apart, and reassembly.

Bob


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Last edited by Bob R; 11/20/2013 9:36 AM.

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Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: Bob Roach] #137908 11/20/2013 3:37 PM
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Bearbait in NM Offline
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Bob,

Nice write up. It sounds like one of those things that done once would become fairly easy to do more frequently. I do not have any swing-out Rugers, but I have found the single actions actually pretty easy to completely disassembe (frame/action parts).

Craig


Northern born and Southern bred
Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: Bearbait in NM] #137964 11/22/2013 7:21 AM
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Bob Roach Offline OP
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While I was giving the old Ruger a going over I discovered the rings had shot loose with all that shooting. I was wondering why the groups were loose.

Back to the range for more shooting. I tryed a new target today. I cut 2" strips 11-1/2" long from White Card Stock. I stuck them to card board with spray adheasive in a Cross. I like this target, easy to center the 30mm UltraDot in with a White Line on all 4 sides of the Red Dot.
Much better groups with the Rings tight.

Thursday Evening, 400+ Channels on the Boob Tube, and Chopped is as good as it gets.
Since I had my Ruger Tools still handy, I took the trigger group out of the 9.5" Super RedHawk, and installed an 8# Cylinder Latch / Trigger Return Spring to "try out". That helped out the Single Action Trigger Pull a little. I never shoot it Double Action, so I may get away with the light Trigger Return Spring weight.

I needed to do a little more work on the SRH. The Trigger Latch / Trigger Return Spring Hole is rough as a Cob. I need to hone it out with the drimel tool, and a wood stem Q-Tip with polish. I also need to run a drill Bit through the Latch Retainer Pin hole (By Hand). I should probably also polish the Hammer Spring Strut when I work on the hole. I will work on it a little more on a rainey day.

I about forgot. I finally got around to installing a 30mm Bubble Level Ring on the back of the UltraDot 30. I had just the exact amount of room between the rear Ruger Scope Ring, and the Buttler Creek scope cap for the Bubble Level. This should tune up my 100 yard groups from the bench a little more.

I think I about have the 480R Super RedHawk where I want it:
Hogue "Tamer" Grips
Marbel Green Fiber Optic Front Sight (Back Up Sight)
30mm Ruger Rings (Swapped the New 1" Rings with Ruger)
30mm UltraDot
30mm Buttler Creek Scope Caps
30mm Scope Bubble Level
Trigger Return Spring

Custom Made Case made from a Boyt Padded Counter Matt, and 1" OD Webbing. It has both a Loop Carry Handle, as well as Dee's for a shoulder Strap. I have it set up for the shoulder strap to be cross chest, so the case is carried under my Left Arm like a muzzle loader possibles bag. I can access the pistol from the Flap end. I got the idea from Greggs Pistol Drag Bag about 3 years ago. Works great for me, and how I hunt.

Custom 375 grain Mountain Mould casting a Wide Flat Point (70% Meplat) bullet set up for a Hornady gas check. One nice big grease groove, Plus grease infront of the gas check. One nice bullet if I say so myself.

Not much left to improve on.

Bob


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Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: Bob Roach] #138002 11/23/2013 8:59 PM
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lilguy Offline
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This topic seems to have opened up a bit on the 480. May I ask what grip you have on yours? I started shoot mine more and my middle finger is taking a beating from the trigger guard that is unsustainable in the long run.The new guns on RUGER.com have
what appears to be a Hogue style that shields your finger. Would you please comment? thanks

Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: lilguy] #138006 11/24/2013 12:26 AM
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s4s4u Offline
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 Quote:
Hogue "Tamer" Grips


Rod, too.

Short cuts often lead to long recoveries.
Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: s4s4u] #138083 11/26/2013 6:28 PM
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Steve in PA Offline
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I routinely break down my SRH to thoroughly clean it. Instead of punched, I use pieces if heavy paper clips. As for the special tool, I do have one of those bought the Brownell's to completely disassemble the cylinder.


Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: Steve in PA] #138138 11/27/2013 2:13 PM
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lilguy Offline
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What scope and rings are you using?

Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: lilguy] #138217 11/29/2013 6:23 PM
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BBwheelgunner Offline
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Dang... I have never broken down any of my revovers that much. just take the cylinders out (single actions) and take the grips off.


"If you are going to go through all the trouble to put a hole in something, why not make it a big one?"
Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: lilguy] #138233 11/30/2013 3:00 AM
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Steve in PA Offline
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 Originally Posted By: lilguy
What scope and rings are you using?


If the question was for me, the rings are the standard Ruger rings that came with the SRH and the scope is a Bushnell Trophy 2-6x.

Re: A Serious Cleaning for a Super RedHawk [Re: Steve in PA] #138264 11/30/2013 7:00 PM
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Vance in AK. Offline
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Thanks Bob. A good reminder for me that my SRH hasn't been apart in WAY to long.
I too have the Hogue Tamer grips & love them. Night & day difference from stock on grip comfort. Ruger should make them a factory item!


Vance in AK.

Matthew 6:33
"But seek first the kingdom of God and His righteousness, and all these things shall be added to you."

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