I am new to reloading. I am having some problems that I was sure was caused by me. Now I am not so sure it is me. First I am loading 44 mag. First step resize and decap once fired brass and resize np. Check case length 1.282 . Set expander and flare just enough to start bullet. Set die and adjust seating depth np set crimp as per rcbs directions crimp a little at a time . I get a a decent crimp just need a little more .... and I buckle the case. Now I set this up 8 times and still buckle the case. Call rcbs... guy goes through set up procedure on the phone walks me through it step by step still buckles the case. Guy was great great customer service. Says he doesnt know perhaps cut back case a little try again. Set up case trimmer , sized case wont fit over piolet. Measure piolet it reads .426 check sized case, not belled it measures . 421. Call rcbs back and ask what a sized case should measure after resizing. I get it could very... . If I would like I can ship my die set and have them inspected but theres probably nothing wrong. First question what should a properly sized case read id. Could to long a case cause buckling?
Next question my redding case trimmer says to trim after sizing ... before belling. Rcbs rep says to trim after belling... How does that give you an accurate trim length.... and it contradicts rcbs printed directions... ?
Oh if it helps I am trying to load 240 grain cmj bullets that have a really light cannelure..the buckling is occurring half way down the case not at the cannelure.

My RCBS 44 expander mic's at .4275". If those bullets just happen to have a real thick skin, as well as a shallow cannelure, you may be asking for too much crimp. If crimp bottoms out and the handle keeps pulling, the case is all that's left to give. I always trim after the first F/L sizing for uniformity.

Mike, make sure the brass is all the same length,it may help you to seat and crimp separately.

Seat and crimp in two steps bud. Should fix the problem.

Hornady brass??

Does the bullet have a cannelure ( knurled groove ) in the body of the bullet? Speer #14 manual has good section on crimping. Alternative is to get a taper crimping die ( Redding, Lee custom - on Lee's website ) and avoid using the roll crimp. Best advice: Speer #14 manual.

Doc

Rack and Glenn have it correct, you need to seat and crimp in two steps at least for now to isolate your variables here. Also when you trim, you need to chamfer and debur the case mouth.

The case is buckling because the die is trying to push the bullet down while at the same time squeezing for the crimp. If you did not debur and chamfer the case and/or you are trying to get too much crimp, the one step seat and crimp will not work.

Craig

Use a separate roll crimp die. That should help with the cases buckling, and it'll provide a stronger crimp.

fly...Sorry you are having trouble w/44 mag dies.. A couple suggestion that may help..First is Cleanliness. l tumble fired cases before AND After sizing/primer pocket cleaning...Second, l adjust crimp/seating die using a loaded factory round.. After adjusting the seat/crimp die l insert an empty belled/sized case and insert a bullet.. Then l slowly begin seating my bullet.. l stop and check the seating progress frequently.. lf l sense or feel ANY resistance l ''STOP''...Most of the time buckled cases are caused by the crimp being started before the bullet is fully seated...

l trim cases for competition/target/hunting rounds... l have only started recently seating and crimping in separate steps...This is on my S&W PC 460 Magnum l got awhile back to provide a sufficient crimp to handle the heavy recoil of the gun..

Dont give up or get discouraged...Making my own custom ammo is just about the most satisfying part of shooting... Knowing l have made a round that can shoot as accurate and sometimes better than the factory feels really good..PLUS..l can make rounds NO factory produces

How do you adjust seater to stop before crimping when you adjust seat then crimp then screw seater down till it just touches seated and crimped bullet?
Thanks for the info guys.

I adjust the seater long and stop when I have the bullet as deep as I want. Then back seating stem out so it dosent touch and adjust crimp . With the crimp adjusted and ram in up position screw the seating stem back down to touch the bullet, and lock it down. A factory crimp die in a seperate operation is the best way for me,but I use both systems.

Bingo! I have never had a problem with crimping and seating in one pull of the handle. If the bullet has a good cannelure I seat to the upper middle of the cannelure and then set the crimp. When adusted correctly the crimp just rolls into the cannelure as the bullet is taking that last set. But if there is little or no cannelure on a jacketed bullet you can only crimp so much regardless of how you do it.

Best bet for me anyway was to purchase a taper die or a factory crimp die, from lee. I love the taper crimp when i have mixed brass.