Subject says it all. Is it recommended to chamber the inside of revolver brass prior to belling for precision revolver reloads? I am torn between wanting the taper and liking more material to grip the bullet in the crimp grove. Any thoughts helpful. Bare in mind this is for trying to get the most out of a reload not just plinking rounds.
Thanks
Don

No. Belling the mouth will give all the room necessary to seat the bullet, and still gives a consistent brass thickness to assure an even crimp for best accuracy.

What he said ^^^

X3.

I only chamfer (and deburr) if I trim the brass.

Ok so on new revolver brass after I trim should I be chamfering? That basically my question not every time just the first time, I should have been more specific.

Yes, after a trim. Once

After trimming, I'll gently use a hand held de-burring tool.

Correct. Chamfer and deburr after you trim, and you won't need to do it until you trim the cases again.

As do I, just enough to remove the burrs. Not so much a chamfer.

I understood the question, Don. I don't believe its adviseable to inside chamfer the neck on straight wall cases, as it may risk inconsistent thickness and inconsistent crimp. The crimp is all important.

My opinion, based on my experience. Others are quite free to do as they will.
Maximum accuracy is going to be achieved after the first, but within the first 6 firings or less when brass has its best elasticity and "grip", so its unlikely you will be doing a bunch of trimming for these "most accurate" loads.

Now, if for some reason the brass is being trimmed an extraordinary amount, like trimming .327 brass to make .22/.327 FA where .070" is removed, that's a different matter, which will call for inside & outside chamfering. Then again, the result is a bottleneck case not subject to crimping, so that's a different matter than your original question.

Another tid bit I would add is that if you are trimming your brass, it really helps a lot to make sure your trimmer cutter is nice and sharp. This really helps to keep the resultant bur to a minimum, and leads to aggressive chamfering not being needed.

I only figured this out after scratching my head as to why my new Wilson trimmer required almost no deburring, while my old Lyman made a large bur, inside and out. Replacing my Lyman cutter head made the deburring almost nil.

Craig