I just bought a Ruger SRH 44 mag and not happy with the trigger. So, I bought wolf spring kit. I really like the trigger pull to be in the 2-2 1/2 lb. range with very little travel. What weight hammer and trigger spring do you recommend I install? I will be hunting with it so I want reliable ignition. Or would you recommend I go another route altogether to reach my goal?

I didn't change the trigger return spring on mine. I put the 12# hammer spring in and it helped significantly. There are lighter springs in the pack, but I didn't bother to try them in that gun. I put the 10# from that pack in my Gp-100 and it is quite lovely. I tried the 9# in my GeeP but had some light strikes so wouldn't even bother with that one if I were you.

I will try the 12lb hammer with the 10lb trigger spring. thanks

When I got my SRH .454, I tried the Wolff kit, and ended up settling on the same set-up as s4s4u (12# hammer spring only). It did help quite a bit with lessening the trigger pull weight, but I still wasn't entirely happy with it, so when I sent it off to my local 'smith for a brake and sight delete, I had him do a trigger job as well. I don't know exactly what he did, but in SA mode, there's no perceptible take-up and over-travel, breaks about 3#, and lights every factory round I've shot.

I started out slow with just a 12lb hammer spring. So far I have only dry fired and it is OK but, not quite what I like. RedSS what trigger spring did you try? What didn't you like?

Is it a brand new gun, or just new to you?

New springs will only take you so far . You still need to smooth up the bearing surfaces and remove burrs and tool marks,for a first class trigger.

A good smith can do wonders on the Ruger trigger.

I purchased the pack kit with the 3 hammer springs and 2 trigger return springs. The 10# trigger spring would reset the trigger fully only on occasion; the 12# wasn't much better. So, I put the factory one back in. The 9# hammer spring would light soft primers in .45 Colt cowboy loads, the 10# most (but not all) primers, the #12 did them all without a hiccup but didn't seem (tacitly, at least) to be any better than factory. Trigger was still somewhat mushy on take-up and over-travel. I suspect my 'smith polished everything in there and in combo with springs, it turned into a crisp, predictable, and pleasant trigger, almost on par with my 1st-Gen original Contenders and tuned S&W revolvers. You can get a good Ruger DA trigger, but for now, it don't come in a box from Brownell's.

Yes, It is a new revolver. Judging from what you guys are saying I will take it back apart and smooth up the bearing surfaces and very lightly oil them. I did end up putting the 12 lb hammer and 10 lb trigger in. I still haven't had it at the range for live fire.

It will smooth up with use, but you can accelerate the process by carefully stoning the mating surfaces. I'm not so sure about oil, I never apply any on those areas.

I am guessing smoothing the bearing surfaces will also aide in smoother operation with the new lighter springs. I believe I am fortunate in getting a tight revolver. The barrel/cylinder gap is .0035 and the cylinder slugs .430 for all six with one very slightly bigger approx. .4305. After installing lighter springs[hammer and trigger] I dry fired very rapidly without no failures for the trigger to reset. I should be able to do actual live firing before X-mas and that will tell the rest of the story.

I finally got to shoot the SRH. I tried three different handloads all with CCI primers. [300 and 350] three different 300 gr cast GC bullets with Alliant 2400 and some with WW296. Using the 12 lb hammer spring and the 10 lb trigger spring, I had no ignition problems or vertical stringing. The trigger really can't be described as crisp and there is a little travel but easy enough to control. I tried offhand shooting and could easily control the trigger.

You do get a better more usable trigger by changing springs. A really good crisp trigger takes more work and a bit of skill. A worthwhile investment on a good gun.

I do agree with what you said but, for right now I will leave it alone. I don't know an expert pistolsmith For Rugers in my area and I tend to get really particular. I try not to send my guns out in the mail. Never had a problem yet with the mail system but, I am uncomfortable with it.

Do a search for the GP100 Book of Knowledge, and also SP101 Trigger Jobs. You will learn what to work on.
I start on the Hammer Spring Strut with a File. Dress it up to the point that a Buffer will do some good. Put it back together with probably a 12# Wolf spring.
The Hammer Dog is normally not flat. I stone it down on both sides until it is flat. I use a buffer to smooth out contact surfaces a little. I reinstall it with shims to tighten it up.
The Trigger Latch hole is normally rough also. First I hand turn a drill bit in the hole to knock off any burs. I then use wood stem Gunsmith Q Tips with buffing compound chucked in a drimel tool to polish the hole out. This takes a while, spend some time smoothing it out. Replace the spring with probably a #10 Wolf when you put it back together. Hand turn a drill bit in the retainer pin hole also.
I normally put shims on both sides of the trigger.

You can shim the Hammer, HOWEVER getting the Hammer in the gun with shims on it is a real pain in the tail. You will be shooting SA 99% of the time. I recommend skipping the Hammer Shims in this application. I wish someone made a spring loaded slave pin to install the hammer with shims on it.

I make up honing boards using 600, 800, and 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper glued to craft tongue depressors.

The literature listed at the top should tell what drill bits to get. I like the ones that have the quick attach head for a 1/4" Chuck Adapter. You can hand turn them easier when you can get ahold of them. The SP101 and GP100/SRH use different size drill bits. If need be I can get out my Ruger Smithing Box and list the Drill Bit Sizes.

Use a light synthetic oil on all parts. I use Home Brew Lucas Gun Oil a 50-50 Blend of ATF IV and 0W30 Royal Purple Motor Oil for the color. Mobil 1 will also work fine. I make up a general purpose cleaning fluid that ends up Red, using Royal Purple oil, I can tell them apart easier on the bench.

If you have any skills at all you can do a good job yourself. NOTE: Keep track of how the Hammer Strut comes out. Draw a picture if you need to.

Bob R

Hi Bob R,,, The trigger latch hole was rough on mine making it a pain to reinstall. I toke care of it. Thanks for the info.