I am going to build another .40. This go around I am taking a 22 police gun and turning it into a 35 or a 24. Haven't decided yet. If I go the 24 with its 6.02" barrel it gains about 200fps over the 23. This is assuming fully supported barrels. Plenty for deer either way.

Very cool. Keep us updated.

Well I shot it for some base line data. Trigger pull 7lbs. 25 yard groups 3".

I have read some of your post over on GT forums hunting with 45 Super or 460 don't remember which.

I have harvested several deer with comped G21 45 SUPER with Rowland level loads, very accurate and capable cal./ platform.

This past season I Built a G22 also a old police gun(couple guys said it couldn't be done) to hunt with and done very well on a nice Doe.
I loaded 155 XTP's ahead of healthy dose of LS powder.

Interested in your results!

One of these days, I've got to build me a hunting capable Glock.

I have started working on it. took the lbs police trigger down to 2.7 lbs. With factory ammo groups went from 3" down to 1.25" at 25 yards. New barrel and guide rod should arrive this week. i had the opportunity to show the modified 23 to a state trooper a few days ago. He couldn't believe it. I too load the 155 xtp over LS. From the short 23 it is making .357 mag power.

I put the Storm Lake barrel in it last night. After the normal break in shots I put 20 shots in 2" off hand. Getting closer........

What changes did you make to take the trigger from 7 lbs to 2.7 lbs?
Thanks,
Charlie

Now down to 1.5

Looks great. I'll be interested in range reports when you get to that point.

I will have to type this up in detail later but the short version is:
parts needed: ghost rocket 3.5 connector, 4 lbs striker spring, low tension mag safety plunger spring, titanium plunger,6 lbs trigger spring, 2000 grit and 600 grit sand cloth, a new lead pencil and some 1500 grit polishing compound. Slide inspection cover Midwayusa part number 571365 2 uninterrupted hours.

1. remove the law enforcement trigger spring and saddle
2. remove the factory trigger connector, striker spring and magazine safety plunger and trigger bar assembly
3. place all parts in a zip lock bag if you want to return it to stock later. Never throw a part away.
4. using 600 grit debur the trigger bar inside and outside. Use the 2000 grit to mirror polish surfaces. Polish the bearing surface of the trigger connector. Using a pencil eraser trimmed to form a wedge with the polishing compound to polish the top inner edge of the connector. I know they look shiny but you will never get a truly slick trigger without these steps. Using the pencil and polishing compound polish the striker bearing surfaces till they look like a mirror. DON'T BUY A TITANIUM STRIKER!!!! The stock striker is much stronger and polished gives just as good a trigger pull. Pay special attention to the area that engages the plunger. For best results replace the plastic spring retainers when re-assembling the striker. Even mild wear causes a drag in the trigger pull. Polish the end of the sear with the 2000 grit and the engagement area of the striker. Re-assemble the slide with the orange inspection cover and the trigger housing assembly using the new parts. Be careful not to kink the trigger spring. Rack the slide as if to fire. If you did everything correctly you should have a drastically improved trigger. if teh engagement of the new connector doesn't allow the striker to fall view the engagement through the orange cover and see how much metal has to be removed. take off small amounts at a time using a popsicle stick and the 600 grit. When it reaches the point where it would fire re polish with the 2000 grit. If the gun is reaching the point of disengagement and still would break remove the slide and check the connector clearance. This part is actually a spring and can be bent to achieve optimum pressure on the bar. remove it from the housing and bend it very slightly in toward the trigger housing. This may take 10 tries to get it right. If its out to far the trigger bar drags. If its in too close the sear won't disengage. That's the short version....

What loads are you guys using in 40 for deer?

The 180 or 200 grain cast bullets or 155 to 165 jacketed expanding bullets all will do it. Shot placement is everything. 180 and 200 grain expanding bullets in factory loads lack enough velocity for good performance. If you hand load it doesn't get much better than a max load with a 165 gold dot.

Now at 1lbs trigger and ragged hole at 25 yards.

Awesome good shooting, Glocks really surprised me with the accuracy they are capable of.
I milled the slide on mine and mounted a Vortex Venom 3MOA Red Dot ,added a LWD threaded barrel, it will shoot 4-5" groups @ 100 yds when I do my part.

I have only used the 155 XTP bullets on deer @ 1445 av. fps from my comped G22 , I machined a WFN mold that drops a 161 gr. water quenched bullet from old WW.
My intentions was to use this bullet on deer but did not get barrel fired lapped and shooting cast good before season.

LOADS LIKE ABOVE SHOULD NEVER BE FIRED IN FACTORY BARREL!! AN AFTERMARKET BARREL WITH A FULLY SUPPORTED CHAMBER IS NEEDED ALONG WITH OTHER MODIFICATIONS TO GUN TO PROTECT FRAME FROM DAMAGE!

Absolutely

LOADS LIKE ABOVE SHOULD NEVER BE FIRED IN FACTORY BARREL!! AN AFTERMARKET BARREL WITH A FULLY SUPPORTED CHAMBER IS NEEDED ALONG WITH OTHER MODIFICATIONS TO GUN TO PROTECT FRAME FROM DAMAGE!

I have been hand loading the 155XTP and doing the 165 gold dots this week. I have tried several barrels and have settled on the Storm Lake. Good to see another Glocker.

Boy talk about a surprise. I shot some Hornady factory loaded critical duty ammo in the project 22. 25 yards if I hadn't hickuped 3 shots would have been in the same hole. The group opened up to about 5/8". Still minute of deer eye. I shot these into the ballistic buff. Out penetrated every jacketed bullet and expanded perfectly. Would make a fine deer load out of the box.

GREAT SHOOTING!

The most accurate groups I have shot from Glocks was in G21/LWD barrel. Using H-110/Win. 296 powder pushing my custom 215 WFN bullets.

I believe with a scope it would almost put them all touching @ 50 yds. It will consistently shoot 1.5" and under from kneeling position, which is what I always shoot when accuracy testing as this is almost always possible when hunting.

Even my G27 with comped LWD barrel will shoot under 1" @ 25 yds with the above load using the 155 XTP bullets @ 1390 fps from shorter barrel.
Trigger work makes this kind of accuracy easier but have shot some surprising groups with factory triggers.

I relocate the trigger shoe/trigger bar pin hole, this changes the leverage and greatly reduces pull weight/overtravel.

Do you have a picture of that 215gr?

This was from a 21 I built

That is some great shooting there reflex264!!


There is a picture on page 41, post# 820 Glocktalk reloading 45 Super.
My computer is acting up and im computer illiterate LOL.

I am contemplating a similar project on a 35 with a .357 Sig barrel. What scope mount is used in this piece. I have looked at the 6 second mount by ALG. But at $250.00, I am looking at other options. This mount seems to allow the use of the rear sight. The ALG requires the removal of the rear sight to be able to field strip. I would like to keep the sights in place if possible. Very inspiring to see others with similar interests. Thanks, MK.

This is a Carver Hunter Mount on my G20 .... aluminum and runs around $150 if I remember correctly. The mount is compatible with stock sights.

How do you like that See-All sight? I been seriously considering one. I was thinking of the one with the crosshair reticle. Does yours have the triangle or the x-hair?

Mine has the Delta and I shoot it well, but the reticle is larger than I want. I will at some point drop the coin on the Gen2 with crosshairs that has a dovetail mount for the Glock slide.

I'll snap a pic in the next few days for you so you can see what I mean.

I read how the reticle gets larger the further it is from your eye. That is why I was thinking about the crosshair reticle as it should be smaller than the triangle. I just wish there was a place around here where I could look at one up close and personal.

Here is another Glock group from a modified 21. Three shots in the top hole. The hole low and left was a sight adjustment shot.

Glocks are A LOT more accurate than most people think. Same as you I have found sights and trigger work ( as with all firearms) makes good shooting easier but shooting form is the biggest part to good groups as even box stock Glocks will turn in some good groups even compared to "other" handguns known for accuracy.

Once again GOOD shooting reflex!


I milled the slide on my G22 and installed a Vortex Venom redot, this works well IMO.
The magnification of a good handgun scope would help accuracy I
I'm sure.
Might have to mill out some sort of mount to test this out.

Yes they are. I have seen a out of the box 17 that would put a lot of custom 1911s to shame. Very misunderstood guns.

Roughly what gain in velocity does the 6in barrel gain in the 40 with factory ammo or does the extra length only show gains through hand loading? Would like to use my G22 on whitetails this season but I'm not set up to load for it yet so I would have to use factory loads.

You'll see the most gains via reloading obviously, but most factory ammo uses relatively fast burning powder (mainly for cost I'm sure) which doesn't react as well to longer barrels as a slower burning powder. I've personally seen increases of less than 50 fps between a G27 and a G35 using factory ammo. If you want to use the G22 for deer I see no problem with that, here's an article on just that using factory JHP ammo:

http://www.gunblast.com/JoeRiekers-NewAmmo.htm

As for handloading differences, remember that heavy bullets react less to barrel changes than lighter bullets, but it's possible to to see 150-250 fps in velocity in .40 S&W comparing 4" to 6".

The 22 using the Hornady Critical defense would have no problem on deer with a well placed shot. Even with the stock barrel this load surprised me. Penetration was plenty to get both lungs.