Greetings all you lead-heads!

I've got a question for you all. I am the proud owner of a new model .44 Special Ruger Blackhawk S/S. I love this gun. So easy to pack around and she packs enough wallop for all my needs. In my hunting handloads, it is no trick to run a 250 grain G/C hard cast to 1100-1150 fps. Packin' rounds are between 900-1000. Perfect.

Here is my question. If I shoot gas checks, the gun shoots .431 slugs just fine. However, If I shoot plain base, she really seems to prefer .432 or else she starts to lead the barrel. These loads are close to 1000 fps with BHN varying from 12-15. They are legit keith bullets with plenty of good lube. I've tried three different makes of the bullet. Same results. Cylinder throats mic at .430" to .4305"

In the end, I could just shoot .432 and be done with it. However, .432 is just not as easy to find as .430-.431. Just curious on your thoughts and also thought it might make for good conversation.

Best regards,

SG

You could just shoot the .432 bullets and be done with it. There are a number of cast bullet manufacturers that will cast bullets in your desired size. I have this problem myself with some of the earlier S&W revolvers, and have had good luck ordering from Montana Bullet Works. They offer an LBT, 250 gr LFN-PB in .432. Beartooth and others have similar offerings. Be sure you are getting a flat base bullet, as opposed to a Magma design (rounded edges) to minimize leading.

If your cylinder throats are .430 to .4305 then your 432 bullets are sweging down to the size of your cylinder throats anyway.

Have you slugged the bore?

You most likely have thread restriction in your bore. It just needs lapped out if you want it to shoot cast well.

Clean your barrel with Birchwood Casey "Lead-Away" cloth very well. No brush or solvent is as effective as the BC Cloth for removing lead. Every other method is just a waste of time.

Remove the cylinder and drive a soft lead bullet down the barrel with a wooden dowel. A .45cal round ball works great for this.

Then take the ball and align it back into the muzzle, I usually add a timing mark to the lead so that I can align it the same each time. Now, slowly push the ball through the barrel with your dowel and you will easily feel any tight spots.

I'll bet the ball will free-fall from the muzzle until it engages the tight-spot where your barrel is threaded into the frame.

Montana Bullet Works has several bullets in the .432" and they're great folks to deal with, plus your bullets will arrive in a short period of time. . .for me, it has been pretty darn quick! Check out their website.

Sounds like a candidate for a firelapping session

SGalan. Do you know someone that has some "Pin Gauges"? Maybe a decent gunsmith in your area that would? It is much better to check things first with some pin gauges. Then you can go ahead and slug the barrel with lead sinker or ball.

NOTE: Marts do not sell pure lead sinkers, they are Zinc. If you do find, that you want to Fire Lap the barrel, then do get the Kit from Beartooth Bullets.

I have done several barrels and I will not firelap another Ruger SS.
I will send it to someone to have them Taylor Throat it. The SS is tough. Just thankful it is not hardened like the cylinder.

At 1000 FPS gas checks are not a bad thing, with the .431s as you stated.
And again it is better to use pin gauges for checking the throats.

Cherokee,

can you provide a recommendation on a smith to throat it? Contact info?

Thanks,
SG

Ken Kelley at Magnaport