Its plain to see that reloading or hand loading is the way to go for these animals.
Since I know very little about it can someone guide me in the right direction?
Lets just say I will be starting from zero, maybe even negative 3..
So what would be the things I need to get started?
Est. price?
Thanks!

First: get a good reloading manual. it will tell the basics. Reloading isnt hard but mistakes can hurt/kill you or bystanders.

1. Press. I use a single stage, it takes longer but beleive i produce better ammo than a progressive. RCBS Rockchucker or a Forster Coax.

2. Dies. Many companies make dies. I like RCBS for there "no questions asked" warranty. If you have a problem, they will get you up an running, no charge. (this goes for all there products). Forster makes better dies but they dont have the same warranty and chances are you wont see a difference.

3. Caliper. You will need a caliper to do all kinds of measuring. I like starret but i guess any will do. Get one that measures down to .001".

4. Other measuring tools.
1. RCBS precision Mic. I use this to setup my resizing die. I dont see how you can do without it.
2. Stoney Point Overall length guage and Bullet comparator. Use this to determine distance to lands and to measure overall length of loaded rounds based on ogive rather than bullet tip.

5. Tumbler: you need something to clean brass. a tumbler is the way to go. I use a lyman and it works good. You put crushed corn cob or walnut media in and it cleans and polishes the brass nice.

6. Trimmer. you need to trim your cases. there are many trimmers out there, manual, power etc. I have experience with the RCBS trimpro powered trimmer. Its nice becuase it trims, chamfers and deburs (with the 3way head) all in one step and it comes with everything you need to trim most calibers. I currently use a Giraud tool trimmer for my .223. If your trimming large qty the giraud is the way to go. www.giraudtool.com it is the best trimmer money can buy, the draw back is that it is kind of a pain to change calibers.

7. scale. you need to weigh stuff. you can get a balance beam scale or a electronic scale. doesnt matter. I use a lyman DPS1200 which automatically trickles the charge to the exact amount. Its expensive but i never had much luck with powder measures for the powder i use.

8. if you dont get a lyman DPS1200 you will need a volume based powder measure. these range from $15 to $300+. i have little experience with any of the measures.

9. various brass prep tools. there are a few tools to prep brass for benchrest quality ammo. ie. primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburrers etc. they can be had at http://www.sinclairintl.com/. sinclair makes good stuff.

I probably left some stuff out, but i gotta get back to work. One thing i can say is this: Really think about every peice of equipment you need. ask opinions on every peice. Take the advise of people that have already learned the hard way that some peice of gear doesnt work.

I would recommend that you first get a manual and read it, the lyman manual goes through a lot of the basics.
As to equipment, there are as many choices as there are folks to tell you which they prefer.
A good heavy iron or steel press is what I prefer, the rock chucker is my favorite, but the new lee has me looking real hard, I need a second one.
Powder measures are not a must if you are just talking a couple of hundred rounds per year. If more than that there are several out there that will work fine, once again I prefer one of all metal.
A scale and a trickler will get you by for a long time rather than the measurer, a scale is a must imho. Digital is fine, but I will say to go ahead and spend the money on the weights to check it with from time to time.
Dies, I prefer a mfg. that backs there dies 100% for life.
RCBS, Forster and Redding are pricey but have not had near the headaches when a problem comes up with like the others. Hornady dies are fair, I really like their seating die, but have had issues with the other halves.
It's just like the fellow used to tell me when I was racing "speed is money, how fast do you want to go". This also falls into "buy once cry once" and the "you end up with what you start with". If you buy quality and decide you aren't going to fool with it any more you stand a better chance of recouping your funds better.
But on the other hand if you really like building ammo, you will shoot more and shoot better. I will also say look at cost of a box of ammo and figure how many rounds you will have to load to pay for it and the savings kicks in.
Jeff

Ditto on read the manual(s). Most any of them have sage advice at the front of the book and the one by Lyman is particularly good, as is Hornaday, in this regard.
Learn all you can BEFORE you start relaoding or even buying equipment. Much of what you will want to purchase depends on what you will want to load and how much you intend to shoot. I started with the RCBS (master?) set. But as I look back on it, I'd buy the next better scale, better calipers, seating gauge from Sony Point and their headspace gauge too to check my relaoded rounds without needing to chamber them. Get the best dies you can afford (Redding, Hornady, RCBS,etc) they last a lifetime. But if $ is an issue starting with Lee will work. Take your time and talk to as many knowledgeable folks as you can; folks who actually reload, not salesmen. Watch a good relaoder at work if you can. That, and his mentorship, helped me more than anything else. Subscribe to some good gun mags like Hadloader and Rifle Shooter. Also check out the Accurate Relaoding site and shootersforum in addition to this one.
Lastly, if you don't particularly like precision, uniformity and attention to detail, particularly rules for safe reloading, don't start. This is one hobby where close enough is NOT tolerated...for long. Sloppy technique could maim you and others, or worse. You're not likely to save any money by relaoding unless you shoot a lot. And it's difficult to beat the best commercial ammo by handloading primarilly because they may have access to powders we do not and are able to get and incorporate techniques that are hard to duplicate without special equipment into their processes. But it can be done. For example hadloading allows me to 18 cartridges, including 6 wildcats that I have to make cases for, with the best bullets for their intended purpose. For me, there is nothing so satifying as maxing out the performance of a particular gun and harvesting game with a cartridge I loaded. (Besides, I just plain like the relaoding part too). If you need help, feel free to ask, no such thing as a dumb question in this hobby...except the one not asked.

the lee anniversary kit is out there for around $75. be a good starter kit to see how ya like it and will load ammo for years.

but..........if ya think you'll stay in it....want top quality stuff.......a $250 outfit from rcbs or redding would be really nice.

if i were doing it, i'd build it a piece at a time on good quality used or new equipment. but............i've been doing it long enuff to know what i like and what exact tools i want or need.

press n dies
scales
calipers
powder trickler
lee powder dipper kit
stoney point bullet comparator
primer pocket cleaner
case mouth chamfer/debur tool
lee trimmer for calibers loaded, or a forster trimmer
case lube(hornady unique, lee case lube, or imperial size die wax)...as i prefer rub on lubes nowadays.

.........and most importantly.....a coupld good manuals.

I started well over 20 yrs ago with a RCBS Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit and except for a powder trickler and tumbler it has everything in it you'll need to get started including a reloading manual.

The kit now runs in the mid to high $200.00's and all you'll need to purchase (except for the trickler and tumbler) are the components needed to load your first cartridges....dies, brass, powder, primers and bullets.

As was stated earlier stick with quality dies.....I go with Redding first and RCBS second and I shy away from Lee.

Ike