I know most of you are very gun savvy but some are a little newer to handguns and handgun hunting. I am going to start a thread showing before and after results on my 357 Blackhawk. I decided to just copy the post I started on this project from the Tennessee Handgun Hunters group on FB. as the parts all arrive I will update the thread here as well. Here goes....

We already know that these guns are capable of 2" groups at 100 yards. The first steps to improving the accuracy of one of these guns is a thorough inspection. Obviously the first thing to check is the barrel. You should look for pitting, metal deposits, damage to the muzzle or cracks, leading or erosion at the forcing cone. In this case all of these items are in great shape.

The gun 1974 new model pre-warning blackhawk


testing accuracy with a known accuracy load at 25 yards from a rest over 3". Unacceptable from a gun that I know can shoot 2" at 100 yards.



To be continued..............

Next is the base pin. On a gun of this age wear is expected. On this particular gun there are rough spots and bumps. Close examination of the frame and cylinder reveal moderate wear on both surfaces. This results in a condition known as end shake. This is a definite detriment to accuracy. Fortunately there is a cure for this too.




Now we want to look at the cylinder gap and clearance at the gas shield which is the boss that the base pin protrudes through in to the cylinder. In this case the cyl gap is .004" and so is the gas shield clearance.
.004" is on the far end of acceptable but within limits. Gas shield clearance on a gun such as this should be between .001" and .002". This will have to be addressed but not a major issue.

Interested to see how it goes. I have ben looking for a older Bisley 7.5" in 357 to do the same. Have a 44 and 45 that shoot very well. As you say 2"ish at 100 yds

I had a model 28 6" S&W I mounted a 2x Leupold on. I shot cast bullets in one hole at 50 yards.

Those Bisley 357s are slightly hard to come by. You can always buy a Blackhawk and turn it into a Bisley.

R264: KEEP IT COMING

your not kidding about unacceptable 25yd accuracy

a .004" gap is not to bad...

The end shake bad on this one as is the 4lbs 14oz trigger. Last part on the way.

Well the parts are all in. Now for some time to get this underway!

May I ask what your "known accuracy" load is? I'm always looking for accurate loads.

Interesting thread.

Learning some things and very interested to see the end result.

158 XTP
GM200M primer
15.8grs H110
Starline case

Never saw a good tight gun that wouldn't shoot bug holes with that load.

Thank you.

I am going to try to do this Saturday. I could have just done it but I want to document this for educational purposes. I know most of you are pretty savvy working on your guns but there are many newbees here that I feel like can benefit from a general idea of what makes these things work.

Even old dogs can learn new tricks. WOOF WOOF

It is dismantled. I discovered a lot of wear on the cylinder latch and the pin that holds it. I ordered new parts to replace these as well. I am going to try to start putting back Saturday and documenting what I am doing. This isn't meant to be a complete assembly/disassembly thread. I a hoping to show what to do to get one shooting that has seen better days.

After being away from HHM for way Tooo long I stumble into the exact tutorial I need.
I've been trying to get a new model .41 mag bisley BH 7.5" to shoot better than 8"@25 yes hand loads, factory ammo to no avail. I will be watching this one very close.

Anything new to report on this project? Hope all your parts are going together smoothly.

Yes. I will update in a few days. I am going to have to fit a new hammer plunger to the SBH hammer. I have it but haven't had time to fit it. the rest of the work is done. It locks up like a bank vault now.

Here is a pic assembled with new parts. drastic improvement. Will fit hammer this week.

Have you done any measurements on it yet?
Inspect muzzle crown?
Measure cylinder throats?
Slug bore?
Cylinder gap?
Clearance at gas ring?
Check forcing cone for cracks or erosion?
If so let us know what is going on.

Sorry it took a while to look up the numbers. I found my fils reciept for this RBH Bisley 1982.
Cyl gap .006, cyl pin shroud gap .002+, cyl/breach face .0015, cyl throats .4105-.411 slugged, barrel bore .399-.4105 slugged, cyl pin and cyl wear I can feel it but not really see it. The cyl locking lug looks worn but the cyl stops appear clean and crisp. A question for you reflex264 how do I tell what to replace and can I order upsized parts to alieviate the worn out parts? Hope I didn't leave anything out if so let me know.

If you are familiar and comfortable disassembling the gun remove the latch and measure it where it engages the cylinder. Check the fit of the pin inserted through the latch. On the 357 is was necessary to replace the pin and latch.

Yes quite comfortable with disasembly and rebuild just need to know what I'm looking at and what the acceptable tolerances are.

With .006 cyl. gap will the barrel need to be to be "set back"??

I got a start on dismanteling the BH but will have to finish this weekend.

It shouldn't hurt accuracy much but will affect velocity some. Guess right now is a belt mountain base pin and a new latch and pin will work wonders. How is the trigger?

3/4" after work but will be better.

Nice work!

big improvement over original group...

.675" from sighting in this morning at 25. Had to go to work. If I get home in time moving out to 100 yards.

Thanks. its getting there.

Thanks. A work in progress.

Aarg! I got all the obvious and easy parts removed but not in the correct order this caused some hang ups with trigger & hammer pins and had to take a break till now. Its all dismanteled and ready for inspection. The trigger is very smooth my FIL had work done on it and feels similar to how I setup my tcs, haven't checked for wear or damage yet im going back out now to list parts that may need attention. The 3 parts you mentioned do you have a link to get those from?

Aarg! I got all the obvious and easy parts removed but not in the correct order this caused some hang ups with trigger & hammer pins and had to take a break till now. Its all dismanteled and ready for inspection. The trigger is very smooth my FIL had work done on it and feels similar to how I setup my tcs, haven't checked for wear or damage yet im going back out now to list parts that may need attention. The 3 parts you mentioned do you have a link to get those from? Oh shoot cant find link for uploading pics???

I think I just scrambled my reply?

Wow very impressed with the improvement

I just need to varify your recommended parts to start with
Belt mt base pin, cyl. lock and trigger pin?

I noticed detent pin & spring in hammer assembly was missing the retention pin I should replace that correct?

DASBEAR: I BELIEVE REFLEX264 WAS DOING A REBUILD ON A WELL WORN OLDER REVOLVER. A NEWER REVOLVER CAN BE TWEAKED TO SHOOT BETTER WITH A LOT LESS WORK THAN A REBUILD.

The new super blackhawk hammer takes a longer plunger. I already have the new one but haven't had time to change it. I ended up working all weekend. I may shoot it at 100 yards before changing hammers. I already did a trigger job with the old hammer. Getting it perfect on another hammer is at least an hour job.

True. This gun was wore out. I am going to have to get all of the details on one thread. I keep having to start and stop. lol

I will dig up links to the parts and post them.

reflex264 thanks for your assistance on this project I pretty much gave up on this pistol #1 if it wasn't going to shoot I'll just let it rot in the safe to teach it a lesson. I knew ruger SA's were capable of at least 4in at 100yds and for a hunting revolver thats all I need so after seeing the results of your work I felt encouraged to give it another shot.
I did find Belt mt base pin so hope to have that soon but not sure where to get the cyl lock, trigger/hammer pins ect;.