Well I love my new SRH but the trigger is a bit on the stiff side in both SA & DA, although the SA concerns me most. I don't have a guage but I'd guess the SA is in the 6#range & a little creepy.
Where do I start? Wolfe springs??

Just changing the main/hammer spring (Wolff) will make a world of difference. My SRH is sweet in SA but a pull in DA, but I never shoot it DA so I'm good there. Go with the lightest that still pops the primer every time, 10# seems to be the one but YMMV.

Vance,
I have had action jobs done on a variety of revolvers. Gene ? of Actions by Gene in Anchorage done a really good job on my Redhawk. He is a little slow(~2 months), but his price wasn't bad (~100) and his work was really good. He used to work out of Northern Security right there near the University Mall.

The best work that I have ever had done was by Bob Munden, but I don't think that he works on DA's.

EW

Thanks guys.
The Wolff spring kit is on the way from Midway (Can I count Larry Potterfiels as a dependent for taxes?).

EW, I've heard good things about Gene's work. I prefer to do stuff myself but if this doesn't clean up easily I may take it to him.
Where are you at? I'm in Kenai.

I've had my best success with Super Redhawks & GP100s by starting with the lightest trigger return spring to make certain the trigger returns properly. It is possible to polish the interior of the trigger return piston race & also the exterior of the piston itself. Do it lightly, just enough to take off the rough edges. Then clean it up, oil it with a good oil and reassemble. After I have the trigger working the way you want it, then start on the hammer spring. My current Super has the light trigger return spring & the medium hammer spring. I also stoned the sear lightly, just to knock off the high points.

My SRH 480 had an OK trigger from the factory. After 500 rounds or so and at least 2,500 dry fires it has smoothed up nice and seems a little lighter.

I'm with Tigger, if it aint broke, don't fix it. Just wear it in.......

I have Jewell triggers on my benchrest guns and can not tolerate a creeping trigger. Although I can live with a heavy trigger on a hunting gun. I planned on keeping my SRH in 44 mag for along time so I sent it off for a single action job, recrown, and forcing cone check about 10 years ago. The weight is 2 1/2# and 0 creep. Best money I ever spent. This guy did the work.
http://www.pinnacle-guns.com/about_us.asp

Thanks guys.
Tony, Pinacle's prices look REALLY good. If I ever have send-off work done I may give them a call. We'll see how a little cleaning & the springs do for now.
Mine is definetly a bit heavy right now.

I dry-fire quite a bit & will continue to do so, but I though this post by Iowegan over on the RugerForum was interesting. As a retired gunsmith specializing in Rugers I do respect his wisdom.
I still dry-fire though

"Ah yes, dry firing ... another one of my favorite subjects. Let's start with the mechanics of the gun. With exception of the bore and the chambers in the cylinder, your revolver doesn't know the difference between dry fire and live fire. The internal parts all get exercised the same except you are much more likely to damage a gun from dry firing.

Dry firing to break a gun in is not wise. Yes, a few parts will smooth up but mostly what you are doing is wearing all the parts prematurely. Here's an analogy that is a bit over dramatic using 60 grit sand paper and assuming the surfaces of the sandpaper represent the mating surfaces of internal parts. Start by placing the sandpaper with the rough sides facing each other. This would represent a mating surface in your gun where both parts are rough. Rub the two pieces of sandpaper together and soon you will see both pieces have worn the roughness off each other. Both pieces will be notably smoother but way thinner, indicating considerable wear. Now place the rough surface of one sheet of sandpaper against the smooth back on another sheet and rub them together. This would simulate a rough part rubbing on a smooth part inside your gun. As you continue to rub them together, the smooth surface now becomes rough and the rough surface stays about the same. For internal parts, that means the smoother mating surface becomes rougher and wears, but not as fast as if both surfaces were rough. Last, place the sheets of sandpaper back-to-back with the smooth surfaces facing each other. You can rub a long time with minimal wear and in fact you will polish the surfaces. This simulates two smooth parts rubbing together. When you dry fire or live fire, the parts behave much the same as the sandpaper. If you start off by smoothing the parts mating surfaces, wear is minimized and the gun will last much longer. If you dry fire to break a gun in, don't expect it to last near as long."

He is the man, when it comes to the Rugers. He offers his IBOKs (Iowegian's Book of Knowledge) free to those that ask. They are pamphlets filled with model specific information. I dry fire as well, but not to the extreme.

Unfortunately they are no longer available. I missed out on them by a few days. I would have LOVED to have the one for the SRH. He said Ruger wasn't happy because he used their images & some folks were selling the IBOKs making it a coptwrite problem. Bummer.

That is a bummer. If you ask in the revolver forum I bet someone out there has one they could copy for you. I hadn't got one for the SRH either.