After doing much reading on this site, as well as others. And doing some research and searching, I think I have most of the bugs out of setting up a Super Redhawk for hunting without expensive custom work.
The objective here is to set the revolver up for hunting with the best choice of available accessories, and parts to make the SRH more accurate, and more shootable.

STAGE 1:
Install Hogue "TAMER" Grips Midway Part #231-159 $21.49
This is the best grip for reducing felt recoil on a Super Redhawk. It will have a Smurf BLUE Sorbothane insert down the back to soak up the recoil. Easy installation, just follow the instructions. (If it does not say TAMER on the pack, it probably is a standard Houge Grip) Get the TAMER!!
Wolf Spring Pak Midway Part #351-363 $10.29
This spring pak comes with a new 9 LB, 10 LB, and 12 LB Reduced Power Hammer Spring and a 10 LB, and 12 LB Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring. From my research use the 10 LB springs for both the Hammer and Trigger return spring. When using the 9 LB Hammer Spring some get a failure to fire now and again. Again an easy installation. I would recommend going to U-Tube and watch the Super Redhawk get disassembled, and reassembled. After watching it done it is a piece of cake. While not as good as a very competent gunsmith trigger job, it will be a noticable improvement that I have found to be GOOD ENOUGH and at a cost of just over $10.
The last item on the STAGE 1 list of improvements is a Marble Fiber Optic Front Sight. We have multiple Part Numbers.
GREEN 44 Magnum Part # 320-817 HT 0.332
GREEN 454 Casull Part # 329-877 HT 0.310
GREEN 480 Ruger Part # 334-505 HT 0.390
This is a Steel Front Sight made by Marble with a Fiber Optic Pipe. They do come in Red also with different parts numbers. This sight is again a drop in installation and makes the sights much more visible in low light. (In The Woods)
NOW WHY install a fiber optic front sight if you are planning on a Scope or Red Dot Sight? The answer is simple, as a back up sighting system. If your scope fails you, in 30 seconds with a screw driver you are back up and running again.
At this point we have made several improvements. We have a better trigger pull. We have tamed the recoil as much as possible. We have also made a big improvement to the open sights. The Super Redhawk can be hunted with as is at this point, if you are saving up for STAGE 2. The cost of the STAGE 1 work so far is app. $50 plus Shipping.

STAGE 2:
Here we address the optical sighting system.
The number one choice on a Super Redhawk is the Ultradot Red Dot sight. It comes in both 1" and 30mm versions. I have both, and both are useable. If you have them both side by side on a handgun, you will pick the 30mm as the best choice. The down side is the rings. The Super Redhawk comes with 1" rings. A new set of Ruger 30mm rings will set you back $70. Is it worth the expense of getting 30mm rings? I think so.
1" Ultradot Sight Midway Part # 845-047
30mm Ultradot Sight Midway Part # 914-878 $149.99

Ruger Rings Silver 4K30 & 5K30 $34.99 Each
Ruger Rings Target Gray 4K30TG & 5K30TG $34.99 Each

Setting up the Optical Sight:
With soft vice jaws clamp the barrel in a vice and level the top of the Reciever with a bubble level.
Install the Ultradot in the rings and level it with the Bubble Level. I would position the Ultradot with the adjustment housing against the front of the rear ring. Make sure it stays level as you tighten it down. You might need to repeat this step a couple times before you get it 100% level with the gun.
Now I would install an Anti Cant Device to the Ultradot. Midway Part # 760-008 30mm $30.99 Midway Part # 294-250 1" $30.99
This is a Bubble Level that attaches to the back of the Ultradot and gives you a reference to Level on the handgun so that you can position it straight up and down to improve accuracy. Again Level the anti cant device to the handgun and ultradot. At this point the Ultradot should be set to adjust straight up and down. You also have a bubble Level on top of the ultradot to improve accuracy on long shots, as well as sight in.
The cost of the Stage 2 work app $180 for a 1" and $250 for a 30mm ultradot with new 30mm rings.

Other worthwhile improvements:

SPEED STRIPS
Tuff Products Speed Strips to hold your spare ammunition in the field.
Model # 7002-BP-644 will hold 6 rounds of 44 Magnum, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, or 460 S&W.
They also make one for 475, 480 and 500 S&W that holds 6 rounds. They come in packages of 2. Tuffproducts.com

Field Carry Case:
Start with a Boyt Harness Company Rectangular Case size 16" X 10" in Green Canvas Midway Parts # 773-765 $25.49
Now you need to round up 4 each 1" Dee Rings, and about 1 foot of OD web strap. You will cut the web strap up into 4 pieces app 2.5 inches long. You will use these pieces to sew the D rings on the inside of the handles of the case, one near each attachment point to the case main body. Make sure you mount them far enough up the handle webbing so that the carry strap clip will attach to both D Rings at one time. Now install a carry strap and you are in business.

Ear Plugs: Go to the Sporting Goods Dept at Wal-Mart and get an Orange Screw off Top Weather Proof Match Holder. They cost $1 each. Drill a hole in the top for 550 cord. Secure with a knot on the inside of the cap. Now tether the ear plug case to your Field Carry Case. Install a set of better than average ear plugs and you are set.

FOR INFO I have been intouch with Tuff Products about manufacturing a Field Carry Case. I have no idea where this is going yet, if anywhere. Stay Tuned.

I hope this information is helpful to someone.

I put the 9Ibs hammer spring and 10Ibs trigger spring in my SRH.It now has a 3Ibs trigger pull and I haven't had any ignition problems so far and this is in a .454 casull.I have a 1inch Ultra Dot on mine and love it.

John from the reading I have done some have 100% ignition with a 9 LB Hammer Spring, and some have failure to fire with it now and again. The brand of primers you are using could impact this. No mention was made as to what primers were used when the 9 LB Spring did not fire the primer.

I have been totally happy with the spring change improving the trigger pull.

At the moment I have a 30mm Ultradot on my 44 Magnum, and a 1" Ultradot on my 480 Ruger. You can see a little better through the 30mm. Both are top of the line optics.

Bob,I 've been using CCI 400 primers in my SRH .454 casull,and I agree with you on the 30mm ultra-dot,I have this size on my .44 mag.RH and you can see alot more area.I can keep both eyes open,watching the game and red dot when I'm pushing through brush.I put the hammer spring kit in my.44 mag.RH and the pulls right at 3 1/2 Ibs.

Ruger will exchange the rings for you for free. Call them, they will ask if your current rings are in "as new" condition. Just send them in with your contact info, and get the ones you want. I never stop liking that company. It cost about $2 in postage. You can even specify high, med, or low to change how high it rides. I hope this info isn't too late.

Try Ultra Dot West for the scope. They paid shipping on all of mine and the price was cheaper then Midway.
I don't like reduced power mainsprings on any gun because just ignition alone is not enough for accuracy.
I will use nothing but OVER POWER Wolfe variable springs. Using 24 to 26# springs on SBH's and BFR's I have no problem getting 19 to 24 oz trigger pulls. The factory spring on a SRH is fine as is and all that is needed is trigger spring work.
We have a picture taken at the instant of firing with flame coming out of the gap and muzzle before recoil has moved the gun and it shows the hammer almost back to full cock from rebound and have found double strikes on primers from this rebound.
This case is from a S&W 29 and we have seen it on single actions.

Here is the accuracy you can expect from the SRH.
The two left cans were shot at 200 yards with the SRH, the next shot at 200 with the BFR 45-70 and the right can was shot twice at 100 with the BFR .475.
Over power mainsprings all!
I would not trade this for all the spring kits on earth. If you find accuracy hard to get, put the factory spring back in.

430Man
Please give more information on what trigger work you do on a SRH.
I understand what you are saying. With an Extra Power Hammer Spring you are decreasing the Lock Time by making the hammer fall faster. A Reduced Power Hammer Spring is slowing down the Lock Time. This could indeed have an impact on accuracy.

As easy as the Hammer Spring is to change out this would be a good thing to check out further at the range on paper.

This is one of the nice things about this site. It brings together a wealth of knowledge in one place.

Please provide information on your Super Redhawk Trigger Work.

Thanks 430Man

430man,are you saying over power springs are causing the rebounds?As far as accuracy goes,I haven't noticed any difference on my SRH or my RH ,in fact my son and I were sighting in his .308,starting at 60 yards and I had my SRH.454 casull along and shot a 1 1/4 inch group at that distance,thats fine in my book for deer hunting and Brian Pearce from the Handloader journal uses and recommends these spring kits.

NO, I use over power springs because a primer always needs a certain impact for accuracy. Rebound is from too light a spring. I don't think all can be cured but I don't want light hammer springs letting the hammer come back to the point the cylinder unlocks.

I have needed to do little work on the SRH's. Most come perfect but if one has to be lightened I just lighten the trigger spring. I have never had to do metal work on one.
It is not hammer speed for accuracy. it is the amount of force applied to the primer. Primers hit too light that still fire can double or triple groups.
I shot IHMSA for years and when accuracy started to fall off, I would install a new mainspring. It always brought back accuracy.
Long ago a BR shooter spent thousands for a new action, built up a rifle. He was shooting one hole groups, then they started to open until he could not keep shots on paper. He got new brass, checked the barrel and on and on. One day the bolt fell apart. He found the rear of the bolt had been unscrewing and making the firing pin hit less and less. Tightening it, he went back to one hole groups. He worked up a graph by loosening the firing pin to change group size and could predict a group by the pin pressure.
Primers NEED a certain amount of impact and by putting in a lighter spring you can lose all of your accuracy.
This is the hardest thing to explain to shooters. Just because the gun goes off does not mean a thing. Fool with a mainspring and you can turn a tack driver into a slug real fast.
All springs are not equal and a fast spring that hits with the same force of a heavy spring will still work. Impact on the primer is still the important thing. But the lighter, faster spring can rebound more.

Ive hunted for several years now, with two SRH's. One in .44, and one in .480. Both of these have digested many stout handloads, without a hickup. The .480 about 100fps under most Linebaugh data. Both are stone stock out of the box, except Houge grips.
Both will shame some rifles at 100yds.
I bought extra rings, so I can swap various scopes/dots around without constantly having to re-zero optics.
Thats a feature makes the SRH unbeatable for hunting.
Bottom line, I love them.
I don't really see how I could tweak these guns any better for the field. Note I said field, not from the the vise.
Tweak away, but I wonder if you are splitting hairs for hunting.

This is true. The SRH is as fine a gun as Ruger ever made right out of the box.
The red insert on the front sight is just not the best and a sight change for open sight hunting would be the only thing I would do.