have you done the trigger on your ruger blackhawk, super blackhawk etc?

use the wolf spring kit or another method. what pound spring did ya end up using from the kit?

I've done a bunch for friends but I never replaced springs ,it's not really necessary.Very careful polishing of the sear/hammer surfaces and reducing engagement gives you about 2.5 lb very smooth trigger with no creep !! NOT FOR AMATEURS !!

True, do not reduce springs other then the trigger spring and it does not need replaced, only changed.
I get to 1-1/2# with an over power mainspring of 26#.
Too light on the trigger spring can drop the transfer bar to the lower edge of the pin or below it.

what do you mean....does not need replaced, only changed? can you be more specific?....fer dummies.

anyone seen this?

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html


what about the method of removing one side of the trigger spring from the post?

You could try the "poor boys trigger job". I did it on my SBH, and the trigger is great now. It took 3 minutes.

It's been explained on this forum before.

Thanks

MN

You can bend the original spring to reduce tension or unhook one side from the pin.

The guns I've been building I use the 30oz wolff trigger spring, extra power base pin spring and the Brownells round hammer strut with the 17lb trigger spring and I've never had a misfire with that set up. I also use a set of pins that go in the side of the revolver when I do the honing and polishing as it shows you the exact engagement points so you know exactly where to work and there can be variances from one frame to another. You can also use the hammer and trigger pin to accomplish the same thing the pins I use just have a shoulder so the don't fall into the frame.

thanks to all for the interesting info! i'm surprised more single action shooters havn't posted their experiences with their gun. has to be more single action shooters around........




but i wasn't paying attention then....lol

It's like 430man said. You take the grips off, then unhook one side.(you'll know what i'm talking about when you get the grips off) That alone lightened the trigger to a perfect weight on mine. The second part is to smooth out the pull, and get a nice crisp break.

Cock the hammer, then push forward firmly on the hammer as you pull the trigger a few times.

Mine still has a tiny bit of travel, but now it is smooth instead of gritty.

Like I said, it only takes 3 minutes, and was all my gun needed.

My brother has a Vaquero with a trigger job, and my trigger is now almost as nice as his.

Good Luck

MN

The new model Rugers are the easiest as are the BFR's.
I grind half the hammer sear surface off and polish to remove all creep. Then I break the sharp edge with the ceramic stone.
That takes care of the creep.
All else is done with the trigger spring, never the mainspring. Ruger mainsprings take a set after time so I switched to Wolff over power.
Standard springs are 22 to 23# but once a set takes place, accuracy will fall off and I got tired of changing springs every year of IHMSA shooting.
Folks do not realize how important a mainspring is to accuracy and even though the gun will fire, you lose a great deal.
This is what the proper trigger job and over power mainspring will do at 50 yards. I shot this with a BFR .500 JRH, 440 gr cast and 29.5 gr of 296. It is an over grown Ruger, same internal parts.

here's the finished product.

i think the poorboy trigger job will suit me fine.

feels good nuff fer a revolver.

http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm



santa clause treated me right this year!

Santa missed my house...