I need some info on reloading the 45 colt using H110 powder. I know it can be done, but I don't have it in my reloading manual from Hornady. It is listed for the 460S&W, and it is my preferred powder. I don't want to buy a bunch of different kinds of powder, so want to get the 45 colt shooting as good as possible using the H110. I used up some powder that was given to me with a bunch of brass and bullets that I bought, but didn't like it at all. Very inconsistent. The H110 has always been perfect in my 460, so I KNOW it will work in the 45 colt. It just HAS to!!!

Oh, the gun is the "tough as nails" Colt Anaconda with a 6" barrel, and the bullet is a 250gr xtp. And yes, I want to push the top end loads if the accuracy will hang on out to 100 yards. I don't want loads that are listed for the cowboy action shoots. I want the loads made for the tough guns and single shots.

I have found that what President Wapitirod stated before is true-- H110 works best at full house loads. Yet another reason I like H110!

I'd like to know published maximums and recommended starting points please.

Stout: 26.2 grains of H110, it is .3 below max according to Hodgies but good enuff for me.

Mild(er): 14.5 grains of HS-6, should be runnin' around 1150 but haven't had a chance to clock it. Nice shootin' load.

SWEET!!! Thanks!! Off to the bench I go...

Oh! By the way, do ya try to load the OAL as long as possible, or just to the canalure? Does it matter much in a revolver since ya gotta jump a gap anyway?

You are gonna wanna crimp in the cannelure. That H110 load will jump a weak crimp.

OK. Thanks. Then I would assume it needs to be a fairly heavy crimp also.

You should be able to feel it when you pull that last inch or so of handle.

Ok. That's about where I have it. I'll check them between each shot to make sure.

Wish the dang sun would hurry up and rise so I can go shoot and try these new loads out... Only 10 more hours to go!!!

The H110 load is fine in a Ruger, FA, T/C, BFR, etc. I don't know squat about Colts.

It was listed in the same category as the ones you listed. That's part of the reason I wanted it. I don't want to have to worry about "if this gun can handle it" or not.

I just finished loading a dozen of them at 26gr. So I backed it off a little bit more than your 26.2gr. -- for now!

I'm going to load two, shoot, and then check for any bullet jump on the second one before firing it off. Want to double check the crimp before just going nuts with it.

I'm thinking this load should be a pretty good one for the lion hunt I'm trying to get the time to go on!!!

Still wish the dang sun would hurry up....

With the H110 load I wanted to start at midway 'tween min and max according to Hodgdon. The Lyman dropped 26.2 and it shot good so 'nuff said. There is a bit of room to roam above that, but I have no need to go there.

Definitely watch the crimp. Keep it in the cannelure. Nothing like having a bullet walk out of its case a little and jam up your gun. I use H110 in my 45 bisley hunter.

MHO, load the cylinder full and fire all, checking between shots if you are worried about jump. The last round is going to get pounded by the rest and if they are going to pull the crimp it will be one of the last couple in the cylinder.

Neither do I... but I WANT to!!!
MWUAAAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

John Linebaugh's data goes to 27 grains so you can have you some fun ;-)

Just don't go there all at once....

Yeah no kidding! I took out the 26gr loads this morning and had a "blast" to say the least!!! Going to work up some more at 26.2, 26.4, 26.6, 26.8, and 27.0 just for kicks. Don't know if I'll use each increase, but certainly want to try a bit more than the 26.0, which would OBVIOUSLY be plenty for anything I hunt.

However, I want to make sure its good 'n dead!

H110 is a great powder when used correctly, and I think your on the right track. I have always found great groups with a heavy dose of H110, plus I like that it fills the case to prevent any chance of a double charge. I just like my loads to be a hair under sub-sonic as of lately.

I don't have a chrony, yet. But as soon as I do, and as soon as I get the best load for this anaconda figured out, I'll let ya know the specifics of the load.

Getting ready to head to the range as soon as I hit the submit button!!!

HOLY CRAP!!!! This little "colt" turns into a freakin MUSTANG when ya put 26.2gr of H110 behind a 250gr xtp!!!

I have a question now though...

I just got back from a quick trip to the range, and my group at 50 yards with 26.0 gr was all over the place to the tune of about 6" in diameter. But then I did 5 shots of 26.2gr, and it was a group 2" wide, but 9" vertical between the two extremes. The other 3 shots were spaced evenly between the two.

Does that mean I just SUCK with open sights, or is there something else going on?

That is a difficult question to answer. I presume that you have not fired many (any?) other loads through it for purposes of shooting groups. With open sights it is easy to scatter them until you get used to shooting revolvers with open sights.

I would suggest going back to the 26 gr load, load up a box, and spend some relaxed time shooting groups with it on an afternoon when you have plenty of time. Take you time & shoot 3 or 4 shot groups. Shoot a lot of them. You will discover if it is the load & the gun or you.

I'll bet there is plenty of recoil! I loaded ~21.5 behind a 310 Leadhead LFN and the recoil was more than I cared for. It shot well but I like to target shoot the same load I hunt with. vertical stringing sounds like flinching. Not trying to be rude here but have someone else load the gun randomly placing 4 rounds. You wile find out quick if you are flinching.

Scienceguy, I didn't take that as rude at all. Thanks for the honesty.

I did that flinching drill, but I have a version of that where I can do it on my own. I only load one round. Then I close my eyes, lightly spin the cylinder and listen for it to stop. When it stops, I gently close the cylinder, then open my eyes. I get on the sandbag, and focus on the target so I can't cheat. Bring the sights in alignment, cock the hammer, and squeeze. I keep cocking the hammer and squeezing the trigger till it goes off.

I wondered if flinching was the culprit, but I don't think it was. I'm not extremely recoil sensitive, and even 26.2 grains out of the Colt was nowhere near the recoil out of my 460 with 40.5 grains of H110 and a 300gr xtp mag. So I don't think I'm flinching, but I think you may be on to something concerning the open sights, since I'm new to open sights. I'll load up a bunch of whimp loads, say, 25.9 grains of H110... JUST KIDDING!! Maybe I'll just go buy a box of cheapo's and shoot those. They seem to be less recoil than my 45 ACP.

Thanks for the help!!

Grip tension. Load some lighter rounds and just get used to shooting the gun......grip pressure, arm position behind the grip, etc. It ALL matters....even before you get into thinking about the sight picture.

Wait a minute... ARM position???? Nobody ever told me a THING about arm position!!! What is the correct way? Or do you mean just be consistent? I've been studying the stances in "Big Bore Revolvers", but that is about as close to a lesson as I've ever had. With a scope, this is easy, but open sights is a whole new ballgame!!!

Sorry to sound so ignorant, but I've never been shown the "proper" way to shoot a handgun. Just kinda picked it up as I go. Some things work, some things don't, but arm position was never a concern! Ya caught me off guard on that one!

Until you are seasoned in shooting your handgun, it is best to keep EVERYTHING as consistent as possible. Your stance angle to the target will dictate your arm position between the handgun and your head. Also are your arms stretched out straight with elbows locked? Or slightly bent?

Grip tension will make or brake your groups even if everything else is the same. Dry firing can be your best friend. Put fired cases in the gun and just start practicing everything from your stance to the end of the gun barrel.

Just more stuff to think about.

Bingo! Heavy loads will magnify any weakness in your grip consistancy with a "short" barreled wheelgun. That is my goto load for my Bisley (6" barrel) and I can ring my smallest plate (4") at 50 yards consistantly with it, unsupported. I do use a dot sight tho as I just can't distinguish irons anymore.

That HS-6 load I posted is a much easier shooting load and still packs enough punch for deer and such. You can back down H110 to a point but there are better propellants for that purpose.

Are you shooting rested, or offhand? When shooting from a rest many folks relax their grip compared to shooting offhand and stringing will occur.

Ok, now I don't feel so dumb. All those things that you mentioned Dan, are things that I do try to keep consistent. Head position, stance, angle, etc. My arms are slightly bent, I don't ever lock them out.

I hear what you're saying about backing off the load for plinking, but I don't like doing that. I want all my loads to be the same. Granted, when I'm working on accuracy issues, and it is ME that needs the work, then yeah, I'll get some light loads and practice with those. But once I have it figured out, I don't like changing anything -- at least not yet.

Thankfully, there are a TON of 45 colt loads here at the local sports store. I think I'm the only one in town that shoots them cause they never seem to run out of them. They are a very light load from American Eagle, and aren't to expensive. I'll get a couple boxes of those tomorrow, and get to work.

Hopefully there will be progress made tomorrow.

And with irons it is very important to use an appropriate target so that you can learn to refine your aim. Also, maybe move to 25yds.

The target I am using is pretty big. I can see the center from 50 yards pretty easy. It is a big diamond that is probably 12"+ from top to bottom. It has 1" thick red lines that run to the middle like cross hairs in a scope. They help me get lined up. It also has the grid lines every inch so you can see how far off ya are.

I'll try 25 yards too.

Vertical stringing can occur when resting the but of the grip on a solid rest. Slight changes in the way the barrel is sitting on the front rest changes just enough with recoil to cause vertical stringing. Also the increase in powder and the short barrel can also cause vertical stringing if your not use to the recoil. Being consistent with first your stance of seating, your arm position, your grip and last and probably most important is the consistency of your trigger pull and finger placement on the trigger itself. Everything needs to be darn near 100% repeatable shot to shot.

buy some 2 or 3" orange stick on dots and just put them on a piece of printer paper or the center of the target. The dot lends itself more to irons than the crosshair type targets. The orange dot should sit right on top of the front sight. I noticed a big difference early on when I would use a dot to shoot at compared to other targets.

Dan I still have those penn 420gr .452 bullets. I have some over a max load of H110 in 45 but I think I'm going to load some for the 454 too. If you want something to cause some bite in the recoil those will do it.

The Penn .44's are 320gr and the .45's are 340gr or 350gr. I stuff them over H110 and let her rip. Running them at 1350fps from a 7.5" barrel....and wicked accurate.

I sold someone on her a box or two of some HEAVY .452" Bear Tooth bullets. They were 405gr I think. Loaded some of those in a short barrel .45LC....that was some horrible recoil!!

What Cfish said...If you're resting the grip for steadiness, try moving the support under your wrists, and let the grip "float".

Shooting consistent groups with irons takes practice, and practice, and yep, more practice. I find Rod's advice to be true as well - the orange dot, barely visible over your sight alignment can help to pinpoint and focus your aim, as opposed to a "I think I'm in the middle of the big target" squeeze. Same reason a lot of revolver shooters were brought up shooting with a 6 o'clock hold. Consistency in sight picture. Welcome to another part of the madness.

your right they are beartooth 405's, that was part of that trade with the recurve.

What is 6 o'clock hold?

You don't wanna go there ;-)

#1 is 6 o'clock

Nope, don't want to do that. I've been doing sight picture #2.

I'll try the little orange dot trick too. And the support at the wrists. The butt of the handgun was on a solid rest.

Thanks a lot guys!!!

I can't shoot a revolver off a bench/bag well at all, and if I do I am not consistent once shooting off hand. Due to grip angle, grip strength....The best for me is to sit down with my back rested on some thing and shoot with my elbows propped on my knees. I (personally) am most consistent this way day to day, rested or offhand, it also replicates any rest I may have in the field (elbows on shooting rail or limb)


Many people get mad if you suggest they are flinching, heck I have caught myself doing it a time or three..

I am the same way. I don't carry a bench in the woods with me, and I practice the same way. When you bench a gun it changes your grip pressure compared to shooting offhand. If one does sight in off a bench, they had best recheck their zero offhand because it will change. That is unless they carry their bench with them in the field as well, but that just ain't practical.

That is why I went to a mechanical rest to test the guns I build. I might shoot MOA one time and then the next I'm all over the place with the same gun and load. I've also found that because of those variables some guns I shoot better off the bench than others. The T/C and X frame stuff being the best I'm guessing because of the grips which are similiar and weight and size.