I will have to type this up in detail later but the short version is:
parts needed: ghost rocket 3.5 connector, 4 lbs striker spring, low tension mag safety plunger spring, titanium plunger,6 lbs trigger spring, 2000 grit and 600 grit sand cloth, a new lead pencil and some 1500 grit polishing compound. Slide inspection cover Midwayusa part number 571365 2 uninterrupted hours.

1. remove the law enforcement trigger spring and saddle
2. remove the factory trigger connector, striker spring and magazine safety plunger and trigger bar assembly
3. place all parts in a zip lock bag if you want to return it to stock later. Never throw a part away.
4. using 600 grit debur the trigger bar inside and outside. Use the 2000 grit to mirror polish surfaces. Polish the bearing surface of the trigger connector. Using a pencil eraser trimmed to form a wedge with the polishing compound to polish the top inner edge of the connector. I know they look shiny but you will never get a truly slick trigger without these steps. Using the pencil and polishing compound polish the striker bearing surfaces till they look like a mirror. DON'T BUY A TITANIUM STRIKER!!!! The stock striker is much stronger and polished gives just as good a trigger pull. Pay special attention to the area that engages the plunger. For best results replace the plastic spring retainers when re-assembling the striker. Even mild wear causes a drag in the trigger pull. Polish the end of the sear with the 2000 grit and the engagement area of the striker. Re-assemble the slide with the orange inspection cover and the trigger housing assembly using the new parts. Be careful not to kink the trigger spring. Rack the slide as if to fire. If you did everything correctly you should have a drastically improved trigger. if teh engagement of the new connector doesn't allow the striker to fall view the engagement through the orange cover and see how much metal has to be removed. take off small amounts at a time using a popsicle stick and the 600 grit. When it reaches the point where it would fire re polish with the 2000 grit. If the gun is reaching the point of disengagement and still would break remove the slide and check the connector clearance. This part is actually a spring and can be bent to achieve optimum pressure on the bar. remove it from the housing and bend it very slightly in toward the trigger housing. This may take 10 tries to get it right. If its out to far the trigger bar drags. If its in too close the sear won't disengage. That's the short version....


"A quiet hit in the right place is better than a loud miss in the wrong place followed by 10 more shots on the run"

I was a handgun hunter, when handgun wasn't cool.....